Editor — Anthony Traina

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In today's episode, I tapped our style editor Malaika Crawford, client advisor Rich Fordon, and video producer Jonathan McWhorter for a Q&A. Some of the questions we take on:\n\n<ul> <li>What other brands should release a Cartier Privé-style collection that taps into its heritage, and which brands should not;\n</li> <li>Our thoughts on the TAG Heuer x KITH Formula 1;</li> <li>Whether brands and stylists have ruined watch spotting at red carpet events like the Met Gala;</li> <li>Finally, Since Rich was on his way to Geneva for the spring auctions, we talk about how to navigate the auction world. </li>\n</ul>\n\nBefore we get to the Q&A, we also touched on our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/21st-century-fantasy-watch-draft/" target=\"_blank\">21st Century Fantasy Draft</a> from a few weeks ago. We announce the winner, and then Rich and Malaika tell us about all the amazing watches from the past 24 years we should've included. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"PcG8ekWWG_E","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"2:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/21st-century-fantasy-watch-draft/" target=\"\">21st Century Fantasy Draft</a>\n\n5:11: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/richard-mille-keeps-making-right-with-the-womens-rm-07-01/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Richard Mille RM07-01</a>\n\n5:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/richard-mille-rm-27-04-tourbillon-rafael-nadal-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal</a>\n\n11:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.movado.com/us/en/shop-watches/movado-alta-super-sub-sea-automatic-3650159.html/" target=\"_blank\">The modern Movado Super Sub Sea</a>\n\n12:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-introduces-its-second-vintage-capsule-of-the-collectibles/" target=\"_blank\">Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Its Second Vintage Capsule Of 'The Collectibles'</a>\n\n13:23: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-updates-its-complicated-duometre-collection-with-a-trio-of-new-watches/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Updates Its Complicated Duometre Collection With A Trio Of New Watches</a>\n\n14:53: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-jaeger-lecoultre-deep-sea-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph</a>\n\n15:03: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-the-reverso-flipped-my-position-on-new-watches/" target=\"_blank\">Ben Clymer on His JLC Tribute to 1931 Reverso</a>\n\n15:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph</a>\n\n19:26: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-this-vintage-cartier-tank-cintree-tells-us-about-the-future-of-restoration/" target=\"_blank\">What This Vintage Cartier Tank Cintrée Tells Us About The Future Of Restoration</a>\n\n20:35: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-remaster01-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph</a>\n\n21:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-brings-back-the-starwheel-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel</a>\n\n23:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/unique-patek-philippe-steel-sonnerie-minute-repeater-sells-for-dollar17-million-headlining-a-slightl/" target=\"_blank\">Only Watch Auction Results 2024</a>\n\n31:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-formula-1-kith/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith: A '90s Icon Revived (Live Pics)</a>\n\n40:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-watches-and-fashion-of-met-gala-2024/" target=\"_blank\">Watch Spotting At The Met Gala 2024</a>\n\n41:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hollywood-pay-to-play-has-drained-the-fun-out-of-the-red-carpet /" target=\"_blank\">Hollywood Pay-To-Play Has Drained The Fun Out Of The Red Carpet</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"8487470d-d40c-4d7c-a39b-7bfda10b5f1f","container_id":13415,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/f8d0f164-5bd8-4eba-90ac-b55a3a32e826/H-Radio-Article-Hero-012.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee radio Q&A – Cartier, TAG Heuer x KITH Formula 1, Auctions, And More","created_at":"2024-05-15T10:26:39.215-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-15T10:51:16.146-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/f8d0f164-5bd8-4eba-90ac-b55a3a32e826/H-Radio-Article-Hero-012.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qanda-cartier-tag-heuer-x-kith-formula-1-auctions-and-more","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Q&A – Cartier, TAG Heuer x KITH Formula 1, Auctions, And More","tags":["hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13392,"slug":"the-amida-digitrend-brings-back-the-70s-with-its-digital-drivers-watch","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Amida Digitrend Brings Back The '70s With Its Digital Driver's Watch","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-05-13T16:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-05-06T12:42:06.234-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-13T21:28:52.690-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A jumping-hour driver from the '70s leaps back into gear. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":20128,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"There's a new generation of watch microbrands that's got me excited. (Side note: I never really liked the term \"microbrands\" – James <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-nodus-trailtrekker/" target=\"_blank\">recently proposed</a> \"boutique brand\" as an alternative and I like it). While the first generation of micros gave us a lot of heritage-inspired divers – some of them quite good! – this new generation is more design-forward, and varied.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b24a87cf-8c52-4a3f-a6a5-eb65ce07d434"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It can be difficult to evaluate these new brands; to be blunt, it's hard to know if they'll be around in five years. Even if the watch is good, these need to support actual, money-making businesses. It's with these caveats we introduce one of these funky new watches: The Amida Digitrend.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["28ea6f2b-65d8-42c4-b56b-86445f71c628"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Amida brand dates to the 1920s, but it really made its name in 1976 with the introduction of the original Digitrend. At that time, excitement about the future influenced the design of everything from houses to airports to objects. The retro-futuristic vibe feels straight out of Disney World's \"Tomorrowland.\" For perspective, a couple of Steves named Jobs and Wozniak introduced the Apple II in 1976. It was within this futuristic milieu that Amida launched at Basel 1976 with its innovative jumping hour driver's watch. Nowadays, these vintage Digitrends can be picked up for just a couple hundred bucks; unfortunately, the movements tend to break down as they're pretty cheap single-jewel calibers.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7344125a-e111-44d7-915b-4375805266dd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["efa3912c-79f6-4db8-97d7-ce7f48ee7a76","b6d7fe34-1758-4921-9959-d297f7eacf1a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now the 1970s are back. Everything that came from Genta's sketchbook is worshipped (literally, in the case of the Royal Oak sketch that <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ap-royal-oak-sketch-gerald-genta-sothebys-600-thousand/" target=\"_blank\">sold for more than $600,000</a>). We seem to be working our way through other '70s designs to see what will stick in the 2020s. Vacheron 222. Piaget Polo. Rolex King Midas. And so on.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While the Amida comes from this same era, it's decidedly different. The 316L stainless steel case is shaped kind of like a car body. The Digitrend measures 39.6mm wide and 39mm long. The jumping hour display is read through a dashboard-like register. At its thickest, the Digitrend is 15.6mm, but it slopes to just 6mm. The case is entirely brushed, the right choice for a big hunk of steel on the wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d629c46b-360d-4f0b-bf1b-bd4cb4013cdb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The jumping hour is powered by a mechanical Soprod Newton P092, with what Amida says is a jumping hour disc developed in-house. Unlike the original Digitrend, this is a real, 23-jewel movement with a 44-hour power reserve beating at 4 Hz. In this first \"Take Off\" edition, the heart of the movement is partially visible through a window in the caseback, which feels like the right choice.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["21dc5a52-b214-4d3f-90e1-aabc46a6316c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Digitrend is paired with a comfortable Alcantara strap with a retro orange lining. The look works and it's comfortable, just a little inflexible out of the box. There's also an option for a steel bracelet – both have quick-release spring bars.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["191b8fc8-d8d4-4663-a2f9-40ef8314346b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Amida Digitrend is designed as a driver's watch, which means the display is best read while tilting your wrist to the side. In theory, this would be while gripping the steering wheel of your matching <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://fristartmuseum.org/1970-lancia-stratos-hf-zero//" target=\"_blank\">1970s Lancia Stratos</a>, but I mostly bike around town so… Still, there's no denying the Digitrend is a chunky bit of steel on the wrist, but I gather that's kind of the point. That said, at just 39x39mm, it's actually a compact proposition for the wrist. It's nearly 16mm at its thickest (where the case meets the display), but it slopes to just 6mm on the other case edge, giving the steel case a smooth contour. The Amida Digitrend is totally wearable, but probably not something you'd wear every day. Again, kind of the point. I enjoyed wearing it around for a few days, and it fit my wrist better than I would've guessed. While I got used to reading the time off my wrist at a tilted angle (it's actually easier once you get used to it), it could be a bit difficult picking up the full time at a glance. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The first Amida Digitrend Take-Off Edition is available for pre-order beginning May 28. It's CHF 2,900 (about $3,200), and Amida says prices for future models will increase after the pre-order window closes. You can order on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.amida-watches.com//" target=\"_blank\">Amida's website</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6fdc0e50-ff57-4319-a775-e12461fe3249","6ea956e8-36b7-41c9-a480-680278e67efb"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It's hard to know how to feel about the price when there's not really any direct competition. I'm not sure anyone else is doing a take on the jump hour and driver's watch for about $3,000. Amida deserves to be commended for that alone and for trying something totally different at a relatively affordable price. No, it's not a value proposition, but you can probably do worse with your 3,000 hard-earned dollars. At best, you're paying 3,000 bucks for something that has no compare; at worst, $3,000 for a bit of a novelty from a bygone era.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fb03d43d-b2f4-4398-960c-0a2adaa329bd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Amida Digitrend is totally different. Just last week, we saw another watch with '70s inspiration, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-b1-is-an-audaciously-designed-watch-by-newcomer-toledano-and-chan/" target=\"_blank\">from newcomers Toledano and Chan</a>, though its muses were completely different. I'm glad that this new era of boutique brands is trying out new things. Having handled both the Amida and the Toledano and Chan, they feel priced correctly, at least relative to each other. Sure, you can get a lot of other nice watches from well-established brands in this price segment, but I'm not sure they'd be this fun. It feels like this is a supplement to those alternatives from big brands that play it more down the middle, and I'm glad that these new entrants are doing something different instead of trying to compete with established brands on their own terms.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Amida Digitrend measures 39mm x 39.6mm (15.6mm at its thickest, sloping to 6mm). It has a digital jumping hours display powered by a Soprod Newton P092 with an in-house module. Pre-orders open on May 28. Pre-order price: CHF 2,900. For more on the Amida Digitrend, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.amida-watches.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit Amida Watches</a>. 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Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"3a3f593d-3516-4abf-bf4e-442cbe231f94","container_id":13392,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/613744c7-a59a-4301-99b7-2cd56330dbef/DSC_1077.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"amida digitrend watch","created_at":"2024-05-06T12:42:06.386-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-06T12:42:06.386-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/613744c7-a59a-4301-99b7-2cd56330dbef/DSC_1077.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-amida-digitrend-brings-back-the-70s-with-its-digital-drivers-watch","full_title":"Hands-On: The Amida Digitrend Brings Back The '70s With Its Digital Driver's Watch","tags":["introducing","new-watches-2024","amida"]},{"id":13405,"slug":"unique-patek-philippe-steel-sonnerie-minute-repeater-sells-for-dollar17-million-headlining-a-slightl","column_slug":"breaking_news","title":"Unique Patek Philippe Steel Sonnerie Minute Repeater Sells For $17.3 Million In Return Of Only Watch ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-05-10T11:18:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-05-09T15:49:34.247-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-10T16:56:33.619-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"While the Christie's website was down, it didn't stop the bidding for Patek, Journe, Rexhepi, and others. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":43674,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Hero image courtesy of Rich Fordon.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"After a drawn-out controversy, much of it playing out on social media, the Only Watch auction that had been scheduled for November 2023 was finally took place in Geneva today. \n\nAs we <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/only-watch-may-2024-update/" target=\"_blank\">reported</a> last month, during the delay the Only Watch organization completed a financial audit and revised its structure and governance. Meanwhile, 16 brands that had been slated to participate in this edition of Only Watch – including Audemars Piguet, Tudor, Chopard, and Biver – dropped out. Still, 47 pieces remained in the sale, headlined by the unique Patek Philippe 6301A Steel Sonnerie Minute Repeater, Rexhep Rexhepi's Chronometre Antimagnétique, and unique submissions from Bulgari, Genta, Journe, Richard Mille, as well as indies like Petermann Bedat/Auffret, Voutilainen, and Grönefeld. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["82e476e7-2fb4-467e-be68-3a3d6805add9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In our Hodinkee Radio <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-radio-auction-preview-spring-2024/" target=\"_blank\">auction preview</a>, we talked a bit about how the controversy surrounding Only Watch has changed its perception among collectors. Now, we have some results to look at. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["6a8e0201-d62b-4797-a4b7-a23b1b2e910a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Of course it couldn't be that simple with Only Watch because apparently nothing is anymore. As I woke up to live stream the sale in Geneva, I discovered the entire Christie's website and app were down for the auction. This meant no online bids were taken and all bidding was done via phone or in the auction room in Geneva. As I later learned, Christie's sent out an email to clients prior to the auction that they had \"identified an IT security issue\" that required them to take its website offline the night before the sale. The email notified potential bidders that the Only Watch auction would go ahead as scheduled, but that online bidding would not be available. The website remained down throughout the entire auction. \n\n\"We are taking all necessary steps to manage this matter, with the engagement of a team of additional technology experts,\" a Christie's spokesman said to the New York Times, which has <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/10/arts/design/christies-cyberattack-website.html/" target=\"_blank\">since covered the ongoing outage</a>. \"We will provide further updates to our clients as appropriate.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Without Christie's, I relied on WhatsApp messages from friends in the room to get the on-the-ground vibes of the sale before finding Only Watch's YouTube <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwyXpw7IJjs&ab_channel=OnlyWatch\%22 target=\"_blank\">live stream</a> that peaked at about 1,000 viewers.\n\nFirst impressions: Look at the photo above and compare it to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/geneva-auction-week-2021-recap/" target=\"_blank\">our 2021 report</a> and you'll see the room is less full than three years ago. With fewer lots and the auction only re-confirmed a month ago – in addition to the aforementioned controversy – this isn't exactly a surprise. \n\nIn all, Only Watch 2024 raised CHF 28,320,000, about the same as the 2021 edition. As you'll see below, more than half of this came from one Patek.\n\nA note: Since this was a charitable auction there was no buyer's premium, so the final price you see below is the same as the hammer price. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Patek Philippe 6301A: CHF 15.7 Million ($17.3 Million)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6c42c317-dd09-48b2-9738-b894ad817523"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As with most years Patek was the headliner at this edition of Only Watch. First, Patek didn't disappoint, delivering a unique sonnerie and minute repeater in steel with a hand-guilloché dial. Christie's and Only Watch placed an estimate of CHF 1.5–1.8 million on the unique Patek. A quick note that auction estimates are particularly meaningless in Only Watch land, where the charitable component (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCP27_vquxQ\%22 target=\"_blank\">just write it off</a>!), in addition to the unique nature of each watch, means that the auction floor can get particularly frothy as bidders foam at the mouth for the Only chance at many of these watches. \n\nBidding opened at CHF 5 million, quickly jumping to 8 million and then 10 million before it slowed down and ultimately closed at CHF 15.7 million. It sold to a bidder in the room, who we've confirmed is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/zachattack__25//" target=\"_blank\">Zach Lu</a>, who you may recognize <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mystery-solved-heres-who-bought-that-tiffany-blue-patek-5711-at-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">as the winner</a> of the $6.5 million Tiffany & Co. Patek 5711 back in 2021.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Rexhep Rexhepi's Chronometre Antimagnétique: CHF 2.1 Million ($2.3 Million)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d5968c39-b006-4ddd-a679-a4efddda6723"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"After Patek, all eyes were on the unique <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-antimagnetique-for-only-watch/" target=\"_blank\">steel Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Antimagnétique</a>. It didn't disappoint, selling for CHF 2.1 million after a prolonged bidding war, to paddle 880. After quickly jumping to CHF 750,000, bidding slowed at about the 1.5 million mark before finally selling. It's a strong result for the young star indie, affirming his status as an Only Watch darling after his unique RRCCII sold for CHF 800,000 in 2021. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu Furtif: CHF 2 Million ($2.2 Million)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fd20129c-de22-4bcb-b387-a51faf1c31e3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"F.P. Journe is always another big lot at Only Watch, as the watchmaker uses the bi-annual event to introduce a new movement. This time around, Journe used the occasion to introduce the new caliber 1522 with a power reserve and moonphase on the back. Journe featured the caliber in the tantalum Chronometre Bleu Furtif that sold for CHF 2 million. It's a strong result for Journe, but that the Rexhepi had a slightly higher result is just a testament to how quickly the latter's star has risen.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Other Independents: Strong Results For Richard Mille, Krayon, Petermann Bédat-Auffret, And More"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a9aa4513-ed6c-4b7f-b16d-1077ce549c55"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I started writing this article just after the Patek and Rexhepi hammered. But then something kind of crazy happened: a necklace from Richard Mille passed both of them. The RM \"Talisman\" ended up selling for CHF 2.38 million. I have absolutely no idea what this says about anything except that RM collectors are a different breed that we may never understand. \n\nAcross the board, results for the unique Only Watch creations from other indies were also strong. A few more highlights:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["043127b9-f402-4d9d-a788-16abb176b3e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nPetermann Bédat x Auffret Chronomètre D'Observatoire sold for CHF 240,000. We've written about both of these young indies before (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/after-its-second-release-petermann-bedat-have-established-themselves-as-one-of-switzerlands-most-exc/" target=\"_blank\">here</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-theo-auffret/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>) – they're two of the most exciting watchmakers, and it was cool to see them combine their distinct finishing techniques. One of my favorite little moments in Geneva last week was briefly meeting Auffret and having him pull this watch off his wrist so I could take a look. It was one of my favorites in the sale so I was glad to see it perform well. </li> <li>\nKrayon Anywhere sold for CHF 440,000. After a phone bidder quickly jumped in to bid CHF 400,000, the the Krayon quickly sold for CHF 440,000. Krayon is one of those small independent makers that doesn't get a ton of mainstream attention but makes truly impressive watches with complications that no one else is really thinking about. </li> <li>\nFurlan Marri x Dominique Renaud x Tixier Secular Perpetual sold for CHF 130,000. I had fun learning about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-an-innovative-secular-perpetual-calendar-from-furlan-marri-says-about-the-future-of-complicatio/" target=\"_blank\">the ingenious simplicity</a> of this watch involving three smart makers with complementary skill sets. Excited to see how Furlan Marri brings this to a (hopefully reasonably priced) commercial product for the rest of us. </li>\n</ul>\n\nThe Moser x MB&F Panda collaboration hammered for CHF 380,000, the Atelier de Chronometre for CHF 130,000, and I could go on, but in general the indies that contributed to Only Watch and remained in the sale performed well. The excitement about these watchmakers and their watchmaking seemed to overcome the broader discussions about the sale (though of course we'll never know if these results might've been even stronger without the present circumstances). ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Other Big Brands: Mixed Results For Louis Vuitton, Genta, Hublot"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a8852db8-e28f-424b-9ee5-cc79a1e04047"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Larger brands also participate and contribute to Only Watch, and while some of the familiar faces weren't there, many remained. Results felt strong but mixed. A small sample of results:\n\n<ul> <li>\nLouis Vuitton Einstein Automata sold for CHF 700,000, not solid result for a watch with the mad scientist sticking <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.onlywatch.com/louis-vuitton/" target=\"_blank\">his tongue out</a>. </li> <li>\nBulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble sold for CHF 190,000, not a bad result but one of the few that remained in the given estimate (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.onlywatch.com/bulgari/" target=\"_blank\">CHF 150–250,000</a>). </li> <li>\nGenta Genta Mickey Mouse sold for CHF 170,000, far below its estimate of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.onlywatch.com/gérald-genta/" target=\"_blank\">CHF 350–500,000</a>. It feels like this has to be a slightly disappointing result for the first watch to come out of the recently revived Genta brand, especially when it features the Mouse himself. </li> <li>\nHublot Takashi Murakami Tourbillon sold for CHF 420,000 (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.onlywatch.com/hublot/" target=\"_blank\">est. CHF 350–400,000</a>), I mean, this watch is just more fun than the Mickey Mouse watch, as hard as the Mouse is trying – so congrats to Hublot for again always being authentically Hublot. </li>\n</ul>\n\nThere are other results: For example, the TAG Heuer Monaco Rattrapante sold for CHF 110,000, which is actually less than the retail on the limited edition <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuer-celebrates-55-years-of-its-square-chrono-with-the-new-monaco-split-seconds/" target=\"_blank\">announced</a> at Watches & Wonders in April. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0e207be3-201f-4423-aa2f-e5b7545ec434"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But for me the most exciting part of Only Watch is the attention it continues to give to some of the up-and-coming independents mentioned above. It's a chance for them to show off some of their watchmaking, designs, and ideas that might not be ready for the broader market yet. It's a chance to make headlines with splashy results that, when deserved, can give them the jumpstart they need to larger success. So congrats to the independents who performed well despite any headwinds from the larger Only Watch conversation, and I hope it allows collectors to focus on some of the exciting watchmaking that continues to happen.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Note: Updated 5/10 to include additional information regarding Christie's website outage. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"OnlyWatch Auction Results 2024 From Patek Philippe, Journe, And More","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":3,"slug":"breaking_news","name":"Breaking News","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.942-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:53.582-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"fba2bf90-c467-41d1-8cf2-f28c9c4c8060","container_id":13405,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/a8aa69d0-471f-4a7d-9b34-ea23501804f8/IMG_0466-2.jpg","width":2048,"height":1536,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"only watch 2024 results patek philippe","created_at":"2024-05-09T15:49:34.305-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-10T11:04:07.212-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/a8aa69d0-471f-4a7d-9b34-ea23501804f8/IMG_0466-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/unique-patek-philippe-steel-sonnerie-minute-repeater-sells-for-dollar17-million-headlining-a-slightl","full_title":"Breaking News: Unique Patek Philippe Steel Sonnerie Minute Repeater Sells For $17.3 Million In Return Of Only Watch ","tags":["patek-philippe","fp-journe","only-watch","auctions"]},{"id":13398,"slug":"a-few-words-on-lange-and-with-its-ceo-as-it-opens-a-new-salon-in-san-francisco","column_slug":"just_because","title":"A Few Words On Lange (And With Its CEO) As It Opens A New Salon In San Francisco","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-05-10T09:30:03.338-04:00","created_at":"2024-05-08T13:55:15.681-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-10T09:31:28.695-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"CEO Wilhelm Schmid gives us an update on the Glashutte manufacturer's retail strategy – and provides some insight on the newest Datograph. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":17489,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"A. Lange & Sohne watchmaker David Weber has been with the brand for almost 20 years. His father was a watchmaker, too. I briefly met him at Lange's Salon opening in San Francisco where he was giving movement assembly demonstrations as well as performing the impressive party trick that only Lange watchmakers can: as a client took the Lange off their wrist, Weber would look at the hand-engraved balance cock for a few minutes and tell them who engraved it in Glashutte.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["19ebcbb3-becc-433b-9b06-0126a16b2f43"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Weber grew up around watches and spends most of his workday fixing them (or training others to do the same), but he admitted to me that he loves them so much he can still be found working on vintage wristwatches in his spare time. He said he enjoys working on vintage watches for reasons that will sound familiar: you can just feel the craftsmanship, the handmade qualities, and their charm.\n\nIn short, these same qualities are what Lange instills in its watches perhaps better than any other modern \"group brand.\" To me, Weber's passion, and the connection he sees between vintage watches and Lange illustrate everything that makes Lange Lange. It's managed to translate the long tradition of mechanical watchmaking into beautiful modern watches. It's why the brand still only makes about 5,000 watches a year (for perspective, it's estimated AP makes about 50,000), and why Lange has so many loyal collectors just 30 years after its re-emergence.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fd33f0fb-e94e-4e81-ab3f-b04a137793ec","28c11ec4-f0af-4a34-afb9-0470c81f95b1"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"At the grand opening of Lange's Salon on Geary Street in San Francisco, CEO Wilhelm Schmid and I talked for a few minutes about the brand's shift in retail strategy, continuing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ben-clymer-presents-06-the-lange-episode-with-wilhelm-schmid/" target=\"\">the conversation</a> he had with Ben a few months ago. Unlike a boutique, the Salon is on the third floor of a building in San Francisco's Union Square. While it's available for walk-ins, it seems designed more for chatting watches with existing clients. Lange has a strong core of wealthy collectors around Silicon Valley who have supported the brand since its early days.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"It's a journey that started in 2017,\" CEO Wilhelm Schmid said of Lange's move from wholesale to direct-to-consumer. For example, Lange cut ties with its previous Bay Area retailer (as it has everywhere in the U.S.) as it prepared to open the Salon. The San Francisco Salon is the brand's first in the U.S. and Schmid said that Lange is now near the end of building out its desired footprint in the U.S.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["84a76431-fc66-4c02-954c-7f22bbb6672b","10c57a88-a147-4cce-b0d2-b5b141743044"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"We had plans to do it over ten years, but when Covid happened we realized if we don't do it now it might never happen. So we accelerated our plans and did in five years what we had planned for 10. Now we're at the very end of it, at least in the U.S.\" Lange now has eight boutique locations in the U.S. with plans to open at least one more in the next 12 months or so.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["92c398da-a817-4625-8326-a2d5d54daccf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the retail business is interesting, for Lange it always comes back to the watches, so we also talked about this year's Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in Honeygold.\n\n\"It's the ultimate Datograph. To celebrate 25 years, what more can you do?\" Schmid said. We talked a bit about the reworked caliber L952.4. As Mark pointed out in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen/" target=\"\">our intro</a>, the new movement has 45 fewer parts than the old one – Schmid said that only about 20 of those are due to removing the power reserve indicator. With a bit of a wink, he said that Lange has \"learned a lot\" in the past 10 years to make for a better movement, even if we can't see (and he wouldn't share) the other improvements. Clearly, Lange takes pride in its manufacturing, even in the parts of its watches you'll never see.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["69e70bf7-bc7b-44fd-a006-5c88cefb0b42"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"One more thing: Schmid also brought up <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.enquirus.com/en/who-we-are/" target=\"\">Enquirus</a>, the Richemont-supported initiative to help declare and search for lost or stolen watches.\n\n\"We're supporting it heavily,\" Schmid said. \"The one thing that's always a concern is if you can't wear a nice watch because you feel you're a target. That's not good. If we can influence that by making sure there's not a market for stolen watches, that's a great thing.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["51dc6827-d34e-4573-bd76-f779c939b3d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6b340f9a-51bf-4930-b127-b2304619ef38","aeee253c-5af1-492c-874e-0fd210a6ce71"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"disclosure":"The new Lange Salon is now open 140 Geary Street. For more information check out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxeyxBhC7ARIsAC7dS3_8TzA8lAtta4N9skug3DcjG-tqLtd_NLHDLZMJi81nnVAou_GZUBQaApCAEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds\%22>Lange's website</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"A Look Inside A. Lange & Sohne's New San Francisco Salon","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":30,"slug":"just_because","name":"Just Because","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-08-08T14:09:13.398-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:55:54.313-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"64a4c3c5-2253-4507-a591-e2511a4e2f70","container_id":13398,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/0c23ba3b-3e4c-4900-a252-d70f15d87c59/A.Lange-Sohne-SF_LaunchEvent_19.02.45_G9e_5781_2.JPG","width":968,"height":793,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"lange san francisco boutique opening","created_at":"2024-05-08T13:55:15.710-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-08T13:55:15.710-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/0c23ba3b-3e4c-4900-a252-d70f15d87c59/A.Lange-Sohne-SF_LaunchEvent_19.02.45_G9e_5781_2.JPG?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-few-words-on-lange-and-with-its-ceo-as-it-opens-a-new-salon-in-san-francisco","full_title":"Just Because: A Few Words On Lange (And With Its CEO) As It Opens A New Salon In San Francisco","tags":["a-lange-sohne"]},{"id":13401,"slug":"hodinkee-staffers-chat-about-their-top-lots-from-the-upcoming-geneva-sales","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"Hodinkee Staffers Chat About Their Top Lots From The Upcoming Geneva Sales","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-05-09T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-05-08T15:03:24.215-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-09T16:15:55.778-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A vintage-obsessive, a vintage specialist and a self professed contrarian throw down their top picks ahead of this weekend's auctions. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":16647,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"We're back for another auction chinwag. This time we kept our picks (mostly) vintage, which makes sense when you consider who was part of this spirited debate. Tony Traina, vintage watch head and scholar; Rich Fordon, resident vintage specialist and client advisor (who will be attending the auctions to bid in person this weekend); and Malaika Crawford who is here for any sort of staff battle and partial to a little vintage design also. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"We discuss this week's Geneva auctions at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/auction/rare-watches-including-the-property-of-michael-schumacher-30438/overview/" target=\"_blank\">Christie's,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i?locale=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">Sotheby's,</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/auctions/auction/CH080224/" target=\"_blank\">Phillips</a>, as well as <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/auctions/auction_geneva_may_11_12_2024/lots/" target=\"_blank\">Antiquorum</a> for an informal chat about trends, some of our favorite lots, and Malaika throwing in a Richard Mille-shaped surprise to try and get some less conservative takes. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Sotheby's Lot 48: Franck Muller 'Pre-Brand' Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar in 18k Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eee95382-e5cf-473e-a1fd-74404446c574"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Tony Traina: Okay. This is my favorite watch from the week. A pre-brand Franck Muller, as they call it. It just says \"Franck\" on the dial. It's from before he officially started his Frank Muller brand. It's a perpetual calendar and minute repeater – honestly, at a glance, it looks more like a Breguet. It's got a case by Jean-Pierre Hagmann, the master casemaker who used to make cases for Patek, Blancpain, and others, and now makes them for Rexhep. Sotheby's says they even confirmed with Hagmann that this is the only case like this he ever made for Franck (hence the \"No. 1\" on the caseback).\n\nMalaika Crawford: Hagmann likes to get around.\n\nTT: He's kind of the front-runner in a way, right? But I mean that in a good way – he chooses very carefully who to work with. Patek and Blancpain in the '80s and '90s; Rexhepi today. Anyway, I love early Franck Muller, and this is as early as it gets, from before he even started his brand.\n\nRich Fordon: Where does your love of Frank Muller stop?\n\nMC: The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.franckmuller.com/master-lighter-franck-muller-x-st-dupont/" target=\"\">lighter</a>.\n\nTT: Never, we love the DuPont lighter! My real love for Franck kind of stops when he left the brand around 2003.\n\nMC: For \"bad behavior...\" OK, but what actually happened to Franck Muller the man?\n\nTT: So after a long-running dispute with his business partner, Franck Muller essentially left the brand with his name on the door in 2005. I've read some stories about it but it hasn't been fully been told. He's never really opened up about it, as far as I know – Wei Koh wrote <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/22929373/the-legend-of-franck-muller-westime/" target=\"_blank\">a great article</a> when he visited him in Thailand 10 years ago or so. \n\nMC: Juicy stuff. We need you to write the unofficial story of Franck Muller the man.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Sotheby's Lot 74: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 30020 in Platinum"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6ecd2f0b-fcd9-48f1-804c-767b659964a8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"RF: For my first pick, I have a very similar watch from Sotheby's.\n\nTT: No way. Are you kidding me? You would rather have this than that Franck?!\n\nMC: Can I just say, I actually think Tony is winning.\n\nTT: Thank you.\n\nRF: I first saw one of these at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080223/41?fromSearch=vacheron%2030020&searchPage=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">Phillips last year</a> [where it sold for $215,900], and it's just a watch that VC, or even Patek is not making anymore. They're amazing and very, very rare, especially with a box. The last one that came up was naked. It's a great watch and it's in platinum. This time around it's got an estimate of CHF 120–240,000. \n\nMC: You guys are really on the old man train right now.\n\nTT: Very similar picks, yeah. \n\nMC: Tony, yours has a little bit more of a rebellious appeal. To me, this VC feels very clean-cut. \n\nRF: Is Vacheron ever rebellious? No. Is this a great watch? Yes.\n\nTT: Franck was the original enfant terrible of the watch industry! ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Sotheby's Lot 22: Longines Hunting Case in 18k Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["01baaf9d-6223-4a71-be3f-b413bc3d8dd6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"TT: Malaika with the Longines... Never would've guessed!\n\nMC: I wouldn't usually go for something from this brand, but I do think this hunting case is a weird and interesting thing that I would probably not wear, but I would think of it more as a trinket, you know? I think it's far cooler than a Patek 5099 Gondola Cabriolet or the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/six-watches-that-cartier-should-bring-back-rightnow/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Obus Savonnette</a>. It's like a locket on a strap.\n\nTT: It's wild. There's only two of 'em. I mean, they probably made two of 'em because they weren't hits at the time, but one generation's obscure is just the next generation's \"rare,\" I guess. \n\nMC: I can't imagine anybody actually wearing this.\n\nTT: No, it's not practical at all.\n\nMC: I'm really obsessed with people putting family crests on pieces of jewelry like this. The kind of thing where you'd put your crest on it and pass it down. Very aristocratic. \n\nTT: Like you say, this one's has a monogram, and that only adds to the mystery of the watch: Is it from someone who was just royal apologist, does it actually have a royal lineage? And we may never know. \n\nRF: It's the Alexander the first of Yugoslavia. But he bought it in Mexico City,\n\nMC: Oh, that's gotta be the Aztec engravings on the side.\n\nTT: It's also cool it's still got a gold Gay Freres-signed buckle on it. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Christie's Lot 90: Rolex Oyster Chronograph 'Pre-Daytona' Ref. 6034 in 18k Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6f636cbd-179f-4021-bd22-81971e54adff"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"TT: I love these '50s Rolex watches, but I also bring up this pre-Daytona because it seems to be from the \"OAK Collection,\" which is interesting because last November they did the first part of the OAK collection as a single-owner sale. And before that there was the exhibit and tons of media coverage about this collection of vintage watches. By all accounts, last fall's sale didn't perform well and everyone was curious what would happen next. \n\nSo this season, there are at least a handful of OAK watches at Christie's Geneva, and they're not really mentioning it except for saying in the provenance as \"from a highly important European private collection.\" People that know are obviously aware – these watches were on very public exhibition, so it'll be interesting to see how all the drama surrounding the OAK collection unfolds this season. \n\nBut, beyond that, I do think this is a cool watch. It's kind of like the famous <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5517666/" target=\"_blank\">6062 Rolex \"Dark Star\"</a> that has a very similar patina on the case.\n\nMC: I don't always understand why anybody wants anything patina. I think it just looks like it's been left in the fire.\n\nRF: The patina here is giving credence to the case not being touched, but I think it's kind of unattractive looking. But when you're a vintage person, you want, a case with its original lines, hopefully not polished. \n\nMC: If I were looking for something vintage – not a watch – I'd want it to be in as good condition as possible. I suppose the same reasoning doesn't work for clothes. Like, 'let me get these really amazing vintage Yves Saint Laurent beaded pants from the 1970s and they're just threadbare.' I just wouldn't do that. \n\nRF: Typically, when a watch has this type of patina it's pointing to the case not being polished, but this case is also kind of soft-ish, though the hallmarks look sharp in photos. So maybe this is a case where the patina is detracting from the watch.\n\nTT: Okay, so you guys hate my watch. Anyway, it's got an estimate of CHF 100–200,000 this time around. It sold back in 2012, as part of famous collector Gordon Bethune's collection, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5643962/" target=\"_blank\">for $146,500</a>, and I wouldn't be surprised if it fails to match that. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Phillips Lot 10: Patek Philippe Ref. 1485 Retailed by Freccero in Stainless Steel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c4fa61e1-722a-40ea-a2d1-a76e04b35619"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"RF: I love this watch. There are two up for sale this weekend, being the first two in a couple of years at auction [<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/retailed-by-astrua-torino-reference-1485-a?locale=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">the other is at Sotehby's</a>]. I am really interested by this reference in general because they have been the same price for like 30 years. One of these sold for 14,000 euros in 2000 at Antiquorum. And here we're at essentially the same pricing, although this one might go a little higher because of the double-signed dial. The pricing probably means the same people have been buying them, or the same segment of collectors have been buying them forever and nobody else really cares. I'm probably one of the people that care. The sizing is really good. I think people consider these watches to be a little too small but if you two remember the Boucheron Carrée that I owned for a little while, this is slightly larger.\n\nMC: I was gonna ask how it compares to your old Carrée?\n\nRF: Yeah, the Carrée was 26mm x 26mm with no lugs really. This is a 27mm, so about the same. It would be the same on wrist. If I was gonna buy a vintage Patek in this price range, this would be top of my list.\n\nMC: Okay, cool. I'm into it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Antiquorum Lot 157: Bulgari Tubogas Ref. 7766 by Gerald Genta in 18k Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fc42aa8b-5ebd-4698-85bc-b2ac953fb1bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"MC: I think there's a lot of confusion between what is Serpenti and what is not. Tubogas and Serpentis are totally different things. [Bulgari designer] Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani just combined the two more recently. Anyway, this non-Serpenti Tubogas is signed Genta.\n\nTT: I saw this in person and I hadn't realized the Tubogas was a Genta design before then.\n\nMC: The indices are very Genta. I think this might almost be cooler than a Baignoire bangle?\n\nRF: I would agree. It's cooler than the Bangle.\n\nMC: This is a much quieter version of the triple wrap Serpenti Tubogas that I love. It's just a very cool execution of a bangle / cuff watch.\n\nRF: Cool. Property of an Italian lady, which makes a lot of sense.\n\nMC: I love what Cartier is doing design-wise for women. However, this watch proves that Cartier did not invent the watch bangle concept. Everybody seems to think they did but I've seen vintage examples from Chopard too and obviously Bulgari as well.\n\nRF: Genta probably invented it.\n\nMC: Genta invented absolutely everything it seems.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Antiquorum Lot 90: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 'Bubbleback' Ref. 3131 in 14k Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7e119e46-3acd-4b35-bfa9-29e7b10386b8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"TT: I saw this little Bubbleback in person. I think it just wears really nicely on the wrist as a little 32mm Rolex from the '40s.\n\nMC: Oh, I really like this watch. A couple thousand dollars for a vintage Rolex. Why not?\n\nRF: Ok T Train, tell us about this.\n\nTT: First of all I think Antiquorum, top to bottom, has the best sale in Geneva. But because it's like 600 lots there are bound to be a few steals. I talked about the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-605-hu-de-world-time-cloisonne-world-lot-368-591?browse_all=1&page=1&q=patek+605\%22 target=\"_blank\">Patek 605 World Time pocket watch</a> on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-radio-auction-preview-spring-2024/" target=\"_blank\">our podcast preview</a> as my favorite big-money headliner from this season. For me, this might be one of those steals – it's the watch I picked up right away when I walked into the Antiquorum office and hardly took off for the next hour. So many of these are chewed up and have restored dials, but this one's got all its original charm and comes from the family of the original owner. It's time to bring back the Bubbleback!\n\nMC: Would bid.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Antiquorum Lot 401: Habring Little Habring GMT Piece Unique"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0773222b-7f9f-4d98-8188-04e7225b559a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"RF: Okay. I'm going to do my modern pick. It's not super modern-looking though, it is a Habring. A lot of people don't like Habring because of their size but this is 36 millimeter. It's a piece unique with a lacquered dial for $6,000. I mean, this watch is perfect.\n\nTT: I don't have a fully formed take on Habring, but I'll try. Just the other day I <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/05/habring2-doppel-38-hong-kong-edition.html/" target=\"_blank\">saw a small limited edition split-seconds chronograph</a> they did with their Hong Kong retailer and I thought to myself that it looks really nice and it's got all the design cues I want to see, but sometimes it feels it's missing something intangible. \n\nMC: You mean in personality?\n\nTT: Maybe it's just the Germanness of it all.\n\nRF: What they are trying to reference a lot of times are these very charming vintage dials, but I'll admit some of them fall flat. But when it works, they're really good watches at a great price.\n\nMC: Do you own one Rich?\n\nRF: No, but I do have one on order.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Antiquorum Lot 120: Patek Philippe 'Disco Volante' Ref. 2551 Retailed by Beyer in 18k Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd3e08b0-9117-40ce-9d45-53656fe5488f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"MC: This is a stunning Calatrava.\n\nTT: Rich, was this on your list of underrated Calatravas?\n\nRF: Yes, this reference was in my <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seven-lesser-known-patek-calatrava-references/" target=\"_blank\">seminal Calatrava article on Hodinkee.com</a>, thank you. It has some throughlines to the 2526, which everyone loves. Obviously, we know you love an enamel dial, Malaika. The 2551 is more interesting case-wise, I think because it's made by the same case maker, Wenger, as some 2499s featuring a similar lug shape. I think it's one of the best ways to spend 20 grand or so in vintage Patek. \n\nMC: I find the modern white dial Calatravas pretty boring. This is so warm in color and elegant in comparison.\n\nTT: It's also got the automatic 12-600 movement, Patek's first automatic movement.\n\nMC: It's all there.\n\nRF: Well, sort of. Unfortunately, the crown has been replaced. It should have the big PP crown because of the automatic caliber.\n\nMC: Fine, but can I get something off my chest? I really can't stand a hobnail bezel. I think it's so ugly. Maybe that's why I'm more into this reference.\n\nTT: I don't love hobnail either. Rich, maybe you have more experience with this, but I feel like I hear guys that are maybe 10 years older than us, love hobnail.\n\nRF: I think it's very age-dependent. On a Calatrava, it's very grandpa.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Christie's Lot 23: Richard Mille 'Devil's Horns' Flying Tourbillon RM66 Ti CA"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1f01d922-a180-4bbc-a18c-0e32709731ea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"MC: OK, our selections have mostly been quite conservative. Perhaps a reflection of the economy. So I have to just throw in something for fun.\n\nRF: We need to be brought back down to Earth, so thank you.\n\nMC: I just want everyone to remember that there are people bidding on things like this RM.\n\nTT: It's a wild world out there.\n\nRF: My favorite part of this watch is the three little fingers on the back.\n\nMC: It's amazing. Don't forget my <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-devil-horned-richard-mille-priced-for-rockstars/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing article on this watch</a>.\n\nTT: The watch had you until the hobnail on the side of the case, huh Malaika?\n\nMC: I was completely enamored until I turned the watch on its side, correct.\n\nTT: What are the hour markers supposed to be?\n\nMC: I think guitar picks? Bones?\n\nTT: Teeth? They look like fossils to me.\n\nRF: I like how the case side says titanium in case you didn't know.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1b39ded1-389b-4ff0-a4da-4508a798db1b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"TT: Where is this in the pantheon of RMs for you Malaika?\n\nMC: Honestly, it is kind of close to the top because I think this is where they thrive. You know, when they make a novelty RM, I think that's what keeps people interested. They are one of the few Swiss watch brands that understand irony. At least I think they are in on the joke?\n\nTT: The entire appeal of RM for me is that I feel as though they're in on the joke. And if I didn't feel that way, there would be no appeal.\n\nMC: Hublot is definitely in on the joke, but sometimes I question whether RM is, but it doesn't really matter to me because I don't need them to approve my irony.\n\nRF: I think RM is in on this joke. If there is a joke being made, it has to be this watch.\n\nMC: I mean they know who their customer is, right?\n\nTT: Presumably all 50 rock stars that bought this watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Geneva Watches Auction Preview Spring 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"1835a7a1-ed01-44c9-9e0b-e297087f0059","container_id":13401,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/4f71beb5-cd47-4de7-8cbf-9ed1b6d12007/AuctionChinwag_Hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Auction lots","created_at":"2024-05-08T15:03:24.253-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-09T12:42:09.526-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/4f71beb5-cd47-4de7-8cbf-9ed1b6d12007/AuctionChinwag_Hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-staffers-chat-about-their-top-lots-from-the-upcoming-geneva-sales","full_title":"Auctions: Hodinkee Staffers Chat About Their Top Lots From The Upcoming Geneva Sales","tags":["rolex","patek-philippe","richard-mille","bulgari","gerald-genta","auctions","franck-muller"]},{"id":13369,"slug":"cornell-watch-co-aims-to-put-a-spotlight-on-american-watchmaking","column_slug":"one_to_watch","title":"Cornell Watch Co. Aims To Put A Spotlight On American Watchmaking","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-05-02T15:00:04.989-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-25T16:03:14.423-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-02T15:01:20.550-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The 1870 CE is a fitting introduction for a new company that aims to shine a light on the past and present of American watchmaking.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":30752,"public_token":"7acda81387b09a24e862f6c3043b5869","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"If you're going to revive an old American watch brand, partnering with watchmaker Roland Murphy is as good a place as any to start. The Lancaster, PA-based watchmaker is American watchmaking to many, so when Chicagoan John Warren decided he wanted to relaunch Cornell Watch Company, a 19th-century maker of pocket watches founded in his home city, he decided to reach out to Murphy.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Paul Cornell founded Cornell Watch Company in 1870, a direct descendant of other great American watchmakers like Newark Watch Company and Boston Watch Company. There's even a tie-in with IWC, as one of IWC's co-founders came all the way to Chicago from Schaffhausen to help a struggling Cornell. Sadly, it didn't work – the combination of the Great Chicago Fire and a financial crisis quickly shuttered Cornell by the mid-1870s.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9cb311f7-5027-4efc-8ac3-9bdc2cc3d4bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Warren's fascination with Cornell began when he started collecting old American pocket watches at college in Chicago. He took notice of Cornell's movements in particular, and the variation he saw in movement structure, jewel count, and even signatures. He became fascinated by Cornell's history and when he realized the local connection, became determined to bring the name back.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"At first, Warren reached out to Murphy about making a custom watch inspired by Cornell's old pocket watches just for a few family and friends. He thought he'd use RGM's customization program to design a watch inspired by the beautiful enamel dials and movements of Cornell's pocket watches. But after working with Murphy, Warren realized he might have something bigger than a friends-and-family project, and Cornell Watch Company was reborn.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["02a0acbd-b426-4030-81f3-7345500f9770"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The result of the collaboration is the Cornell 1870 C.E., which pays homage to the original Cornell pocket watches. The inspiration starts with the Grand Feu white enamel dial with black Roman numerals and blued steel hands. The enamel is clean and rich as a fresh Chicago snow. Warren also lent me an antique Cornell pocket watch, and the resemblance is clear, though the 1870 CE obviously features some of the best of RGM's modern craftsmanship.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This also includes a new case design from Murphy, made of 316L stainless steel and measuring 39x11.3mm (10mm at case), and 48mm lug-to-lug. The case is nicely constructed, mostly brushed but with polished lug bevels and a polished bezel. The lugs are downturned a bit to make the case more wearable. I'm not saying it wears thick, but if the 1870 CE were a bit thinner, it'd truly stand out as a thin and elegant dress watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a76ee02e-d234-4318-a40e-111373dd6ccd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Visible through the sapphire caseback is the 1870 CE's micro-rotor Schwarz Etienne ASE 200 that's been additionally hand-finished, tested, and regulated by RGM. It's a technically solid movement with an 86-hour power reserve, spiral hairspring with flat Philips terminal curve, beating at 3 Hz.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e775224d-5392-4f47-9304-10c2aa1cedae"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I grew up in the Midwest and have called Chicago home for the better part of 10 years now, so I'm an easy mark for Cornell's story. I'm all too familiar with names like Elgin, Illinois, and Rockford on the dial. I see them in piles stacked taller than an average Invicta at flea markets and garage sales most weekends. Beyond that, these nondescript Main Street USA towns that adorn the dials are actual places to me, not abstract dots strewn amidst cornfield flyover country. Surely, the Swiss feel the same way when they see \"Geneva\" or \"Le Sentier\" on a dial – don't take it for granted!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"For more on the history of American watchmaking, check out our four-part series <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-road-through-america-episode-1/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","title":"Further Viewing: The Road Through America","images":["b580fd9d-194c-4805-834d-ba73d4cb22f5"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"But sentimentality only goes so far in watchmaking. And the 1870 CE is a well-crafted, nicely wearing watch that takes inspiration from these beautiful American pocket watches that are so sadly forgotten by the all-consuming modern \"market.\" Cornell isn't the first to look to this era of American watchmaking for inspiration, but to me it's one of the more successful in updating the aesthetic cues in a way that feels modern and thoughtful. So many other efforts feel clunky, squeezing a pocketwatch-sized idea into a too-small wristwatch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For Cornell, the hope is that the 1870 CE project is just the beginning of a larger effort to shine a light on American watchmaking. For example, $500 from each watch sold will go to the Horological Society of New York's scholarship program to train watchmakers.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["565e9165-5a1c-430d-a43c-ef6965a01680"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Warren and I have spoken a few times about Cornell's broader effort to create and compile a directory of American watchmakers, technicians, and component manufacturers to support existing and potential future American watch companies. From the late 1800s through the early 1900s, the United States made more watches than any country in the world, and many of its processes served as the foundation for the Japanese and Swiss manufacturers that now dominate watchmaking.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6da70d45-956b-4941-8da2-f390b23499ce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The point isn't to bring the States back to a place where it's mass-producing and competing with the largest producers of watches – that's not practical or realistic – but to support American watchmaking where it makes sense. This is something I've heard other watchmakers say: around the country, there is still a ton of manufacturing and craft expertise that can be applied to watchmaking – but identifying and promoting it can be difficult.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"By launching with a Murphy collaboration, Cornell Watch Company has delivered a watch that highlights some of the best of American watchmaking's past, present, and – hopefully – its bright future.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This year's initial 10-piece production of the Cornel 1870 CE is being allocated via a raffle, which you can enter on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cornellwatchcompany.com/products/1870-ce-series/" target=\"_blank\">Cornell's site</a> until April 30. There is no cost or obligation to purchase when you enter the raffle. The 1870 CE is not a limited edition, but production is limited each year. Price: $10,750.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of The Cornell Watch Company 1870 CE","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":157,"slug":"one_to_watch","name":"One To Watch","description":"Spotlighting figures in the watch world (hotshot execs, new brands, noteworthy instagram accounts, etc.) who are on the rise. ","sort_order":8,"created_at":"2020-11-30T11:19:00.686-05:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.486-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"50c4ed8e-15d0-4ed8-a9a7-fdd2de45e7fe","container_id":13369,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e7caced5-7938-41e3-9418-961dd3a8d4f2/DSC_0027.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"cornell watch company 1870 CE","created_at":"2024-04-25T16:03:14.531-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-25T16:03:14.531-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e7caced5-7938-41e3-9418-961dd3a8d4f2/DSC_0027.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cornell-watch-co-aims-to-put-a-spotlight-on-american-watchmaking","full_title":"One To Watch: Cornell Watch Co. Aims To Put A Spotlight On American Watchmaking","tags":["one-to-watch","cornell-watch-company"]},{"id":13378,"slug":"hodinkee-radio-auction-preview-spring-2024","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Previewing Geneva's Spring 2024 Auction Season","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-05-01T13:00:23.497-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-29T15:52:53.476-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-01T13:01:33.915-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Covering the wild, the weird, and the scholarship-changing in our preview of the upcoming Geneva auctions.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":11717,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"We're back with another Wednesday episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/f9dfd0bb-bc36-4f25-adf0-35ed28d5287e?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

We took a week off after Watches & Wonders before hitting the highlights of our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/21st-century-fantasy-watch-draft/" target=\"_blank\">21st Century Fantasy Watch Draft</a>. If you're waiting for the results of your voting, you'll have to wait a little longer – it just gives you enough time to get your votes in before we do the final tally. This week, we're back talking auction action ahead of the upcoming Geneva spring auction season. To do so, we've invited two of our biggest auction lovers – Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer and editor/photographer extraordinaire Mark Kauzlarich – to talk about what they're watching in the upcoming weeks.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Mark Kauzlarich was in sunny Monaco for one of the early auctions ahead of the main Geneva season, so he gives us his thoughts on the results and the state of the market. Then, we jump right into some big lots from the main three auction houses, including some cool motorsports provenance. Check it all out in this week's episode. Oh, and one quick note: We'll be on vacation next week, but stay tuned for more Hodinkee Radio soon.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"hV8ysnSoFuk","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Show Notes:"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"2:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-new-sale-focusing-on-hidden-vintage-gems-is-here-so-lets-rank-them-all/" target=\"\">Rough Diamonds</a>\n\n3:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/auctions-monaco-legend-spring-2024-preview/" target=\"\">Monaco Legend Group Spring 2024 Auction</a>\n\n4:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/auctions-monaco-rolex-4113/" target=\"\">Rolex 4113</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-101/" target=\"_blank\">Record</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-253/" target=\"_blank\">Piaget</a>\n\n6:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-278/" target=\"\">Record-setting Datejust</a>\n\n9:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-john-goldberger/" target=\"\">Talking Watches with John Goldberger</a> (with the \"cheese knife\" Rolex 4113 moment)\n\n12:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-patek-philippe-only-watch-6301a/" target=\"\">Patek Philippe ref. 6301A Sonnerie for Only Watch</a>\n\n13:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/only-watch-charity-auction-postponed-to-2024/" target=\"\">The Only Watch Auction Delay</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/only-watch-may-2024-update/" target=\"_blank\">Reschedule to May 2024</a>\n\n14:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-grandmaster-chime-6300a-only-watch-2019-most-expensive-31-million/" target=\"\">Only Watch Patek Grandmaster Chime Record</a>\n\n15:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/paul-newman-rolex-daytona-auction-most-expensive-watch-ever/" target=\"_blank\">The \"Paul Newman\" Paul Newman Daytona Record </a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/henry-graves-supercomplication-sells-for-24million/" target=\"_blank\">Henry Graves Supercomplication.</a>\n\n20:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-antimagnetique-for-only-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing Rexhep Rexhepi for Only Watch 2023</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.onlywatch.com/petermann-bedat-auffret-paris/" target=\"_blank\">Petermann Bédat and Theo Auffret for Only Watch</a>\n\n21:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-an-innovative-secular-perpetual-calendar-from-furlan-marri-says-about-the-future-of-complicatio/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth with Furlan Marri's Secular Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch</a>\n\n22:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/auction/auction-23037-gnv/" target=\"\">Christie's Rare Watches Including the Property of Michael Schumacher</a>; <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6478630?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">AP Royal Oak Chronograph</a>; <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6478637?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">F.P. Journe Vagabondage</a>\n\n23:45: Michael Schumacher's Daytonas (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6478639?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">Gold</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6478638?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">Paul Newman</a>);\n\n27:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6478635?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"\">F.P. Journe Ruthenium Collection</a> Tourbillon; <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6478636?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">Ruthenium Box</a>\n\n28:30: Christie's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6478624?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"\">Black Dial Patek 2526</a> in Rose Gold\n\n32:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/171/" target=\"_blank\">Phillips Patek ref. 2577</a>\n\n34:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080224/209/" target=\"\">Phillips 1931 Cartier Tank à Guichets</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080224/208/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier \"Lozenge\"</a>\n\n34:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-special-cartier-roundtable-discussion-at-watches-and-wonders-in-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">Gatherings A Special Cartier Roundtable Discussion At Watches & Wonders In Geneva</a>\n\n34:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-special-cartier-roundtable-discussion-at-watches-and-wonders-in-geneva/" target=\"\">Gatherings A Special Cartier Roundtable Discussion At Watches & Wonders In Geneva</a>\n\n35:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080224/50/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier London Cintrée with Blue Dial</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080224/46/" target=\"_blank\">Paris Cintrée</a> at Phillips\n\n36:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080224/15/" target=\"\">Cartier Reverso</a> at Phillips (and other auctions) and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/24/" target=\"_blank\">Patek 5975</a>J (also at multiple auction houses)\n\n37:40: Patek 2523 at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://live.antiquorum.swiss/lots/view/1-8X0J5O/patek-philippe/" target=\"_blank\">Antiquorum</a>, Christie's Hong Kong, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/55/" target=\"_blank\">Phillips</a>\n\n38:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-605-hu-de-world-time-cloisonne-world-lot-368-591?page=1&q=605\%22 target=\"_blank\">Patek 605 HU Pocket Watch</a> at Antiquorum with CHF 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 estimate\n\n39:20: Tony's Pick: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/a-minute-repeating-perpetual-calendar-wristwatch?locale=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">Franck Muller</a> at Sotheby's\n\n40:45: Ben's Picks: Tiffany <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/retailed-by-tiffany-co-reference-2499j-a-yellow?locale=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">Patek ref. 2499 at Sotheby's</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6478619?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">Full Set 2499 at Christie's</a>\n\n41:20: Mark and Ben's Pick: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080224/29/" target=\"_blank\">Steel Lange 1</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Radio Spring Geneva Auction Preview","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"16f8b709-d9ba-4063-91d7-07417bf51ae8","container_id":13378,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e3ae6241-a915-4434-9000-f63e2f86898d/H-Radio-Article-Hero-011.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"H Radio Preview photo","created_at":"2024-04-29T15:52:53.508-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-01T08:15:27.401-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e3ae6241-a915-4434-9000-f63e2f86898d/H-Radio-Article-Hero-011.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-radio-auction-preview-spring-2024","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Previewing Geneva's Spring 2024 Auction Season","tags":["auctions","hodinkee-radio","geneva-auction-week"]},{"id":13321,"slug":"jaeger-lecoultre-updates-its-complicated-duometre-collection-with-a-trio-of-new-watches","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"Jaeger-LeCoultre Updates Its Complicated Duometre Collection With A Trio Of New Watches","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-30T14:00:09.360-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-18T15:42:42.173-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-30T14:01:39.049-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"One escapement, two barrels and gear trains, three new Duometres. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":23012,"public_token":"0fd4e21958ae64516b76bcaf7712f5eb","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"When I see a press release for a watch like Jaeger-LeCoultre's new Duometre Chronograph Moon, my instinct is to hike up to Le Sentier and scream, \"Just give us a good steel Reverso, all we want is a Reverso!\" But then I take some deep breaths and flip my Reverso a few times to ease my anxiety and remind myself that to demand only simple, beautifully designed watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre is to misunderstand one of the great historic watchmakers.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"JLC introduced the first Duometre in 2007, debuting the innovative idea of having two separate barrels and mainsprings drive the timekeeping and complications but integrating them into a single caliber and escapement. It's a solution to a problem that plagues any watch with a complication (especially chronographs), where the complication can drain the power, decreasing accuracy and power reserve. JLC first applied this Duometre idea in a chronograph in 2007, and has applied it to tourbillons, moonphases, and even sonneries since.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6ae878a1-7b2c-41ff-9a35-8a904812e79f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has combined a chronograph, moonphase, day-night indicator, and a flying seconds (seconde foudroyante) at 6 o'clock that runs when the chronograph is engaged, and is accurate to 1/6th of a second. A lot is going on with the Duometre Chronograph Moon, inside and out. JLC is offering a rose gold version with opaline dial ($70,000) and a platinum version with copper dial ($86,000).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["632f766d-be7c-4f4a-82e8-a7a4946b6609"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Let's talk about the movement first, the new caliber 391 that builds on previous generations of the Duometre caliber. It starts with twin barrels wound via the single crown – turn one way to wind one, the other way to wind the other, with a ratchet system engaging to prevent over-winding. JLC originally made its Duometre movements from nickel silver (commonly called German silver), an alloy with copper that gives it a warm luster that only gets better with age. Not only that, it's also more difficult to work with, which is why enthusiasts swoon when brands like Lange use it. Sadly, JLC has retired the use of nickel silver in the new caliber 391.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Still, the new movement is an impressive and complicated technical feat. While the dial looks equally complex, it's pretty intuitive to read. The left side tells the time, with a new day-night indicator in the middle of the subdial. On the right side are the chronograph's functions, with a 12-hour and 60-minute counter and a moonphase. The chronograph seconds sweeps across the dial and is operated with a monopusher at 2 o'clock. The flying seconds at 6 o'clock zooms around as soon as the chronograph is engaged and sits between two power reserve indicators for each of the separate barrels.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4f7c0990-c93b-47ab-870f-31c97946e07c","0824b22d-616f-4ffe-859e-43e9c26e00e9"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"JLC has reworked the case and it now measures 42.5x 14.2mm. It's big, but not unwearable. JLC says it took inspiration from its old savonette pocket watches from the 1800s for the construction. (Savonette, in French, is a small disc of soap with rounded contours that sits in the palm of your hand – use that next time you're staying at the Holiday Inn Express!).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The case has a mix of polished, brushed, and blasted surfaces. Most notably, the lugs are welded on, rather than an integrated part of the midcase – an old-fashioned case construction that not many manufacturers use today. The glassbox crystal seamlessly integrates into the thin bezel and the dial is also curved to match the shape of the crystal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0a891a12-ccdf-454e-9436-855722189c22"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new case wears nicely on the wrist, especially for a larger, complicated watch. The lugs curve down to meet the wrist, matching the shape of the dial and crystal. The reworked case also reads as less slab sided, meaning you don't experience as much of the thickness on wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Duometre Chronograph Moon comes with a pink gold case and opaline dial or a platinum case with copper-salmon dial. (The hand treatment is also different between the two.) The platinum version is the clear standout, though, of course it comes with a premium. It's hefty on the wrist but not top-heavy, and wears nicely on an alligator strap. While it's delivered on a pin buckle, it feels like a watch of this caliber deserves a deployant.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dc092e1b-650a-4b64-90ff-3255f144fbdf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Alongside the new Duometre Chronograph Moon, JLC also introduced a new steel version of the Quantieme Lunaire that uses the existing caliber 381. It's the first Duometre ever in steel, and like the Chronograph Moon, uses the updated Duometre case. It's decidedly less complicated than the latest Duometre, but once you engage that chronograph and the foudroyante seconds starts flying at 6 o'clock, you'd be forgiven for forgetting. It feels like an olive branch towards those folks – like me at the beginning of this article – who often want simple and steel, even from a watchmaker like JLC. Price: $44,300","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f3b48308-7c89-4c83-877a-6e547c54d845"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["708a6314-8462-458f-a43e-2ec93d35f92a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, Jaeger-LeCoultre also introduced the limited Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. It's the supercar of the updated Duometre lineup, featuring a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon that spins on three axes. The new manual-wind caliber 388 also features a large date, and the partially openworked dial shows off the spinning tourbillon. Seeing the complexity and relative wearability of this technical behemoth of a watch made me appreciate not only the rest of the Duometre lineup, but also JLC's continued commitment to watchmaking. Price: $438,000, limited to 20 pieces.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["579adb6a-a9ed-4ef1-a099-dfc0ba865d80"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8e8828db-93ed-4852-94c5-424311821848","64e387bb-08be-426e-9007-358474813e4a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Yes, I still want the Reversos and Polarises from Jaeger-LeCoultre. But, it's also one of the few group brands that continues to push watchmaking forward at scale. My favorite JLC watches are those that balance its heritage and high-end watchmaking (like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2/" target=\"_blank\">last year's Reverso Chronograph</a>), and the Duometre skews decidedly more high-end, but it's impressive to see JLC's continued pursuit of technical watchmaking for its own sake. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For more, check out the Duometre on Jaeger-LeCoultre's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/watches/duometre/" target=\"_blank\">website</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"09c6009c-630e-4e92-bbcd-6c9124fe89aa","container_id":13321,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c94722c9-b439-4cbd-9b96-409f5151f16f/20240411_JLCDuometre_004.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"jaeger-lecoultre duometre 2024 ","created_at":"2024-04-18T15:42:42.212-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-22T15:25:29.974-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c94722c9-b439-4cbd-9b96-409f5151f16f/20240411_JLCDuometre_004.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-updates-its-complicated-duometre-collection-with-a-trio-of-new-watches","full_title":"Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Updates Its Complicated Duometre Collection With A Trio Of New Watches","tags":["jaeger-lecoultre","hands-on","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13362,"slug":"21st-century-fantasy-watch-draft","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"21st Century Fantasy Watch Draft ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-24T13:30:06.826-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-23T17:08:12.402-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-24T13:31:28.284-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Talking about, and picking, our favorite watches made since 2000.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":20825,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Wednesday, which means it's another episode of Hodinkee Radio. 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It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/1d559045-1207-4da2-818a-c374c51d369d?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

After Watches & Wonders, we're all a bit exhausted by new watch releases, so we decided it was time to do something fun: Another fantasy watch draft. And this time, we're tightening the parameters to get some more variety on the table. So I called up Danny, James, and Jonathan to build a four-watch collection with me. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"We're focused on our favorite watches of the 21st century. Any watch available to purchase in 2000 or later was eligible, except for the new releases we saw at Watches & Wonders a couple of weeks ago. Here's the big rule: Once a watch has been picked from a brand, NO other watch from that brand can be picked (i.e., once someone has chosen a Rolex, no one else can choose a Rolex in any category). Honestly, after our last draft when three of us picked Rolex sports watches, I wanted to get more variety on the table, and there has been so much good watchmaking in the last 24 years. The hope was that the draft would be a fun way to remember some of the best watches of the 21st century, so far. We also didn't choose any piece uniques or one-offs. \n\nAll four of us built a collection in the following categories:\n\n<ul> <li>Sport</li> <li>Dress</li> <li>Complication</li> <li>Budget (<$1,000)</li>\n</ul>\n\nCheck out our full fantasy collections below, make sure to vote for your favorite, and maybe even tell us what your four-watch fantasy collection would be. Even better, tell us what type of fantasy draft we should do next.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"Ze44oyVC3fA","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Collections"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Here are the four collections – check them out, then vote for your favorite in the poll below!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Jonathan"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["333aec14-8f28-49d9-afc7-5d9228121f00"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nSports: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/search?q=rolex%2016570\%22 target=\"_blank\">Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570 Black Dial</a> (H Shop)</li> <li>\nDress: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-saxonia-thin-blue-copper-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">Lange Saxonia Thin Ref. 205.086</a>\n</li> <li>\nComplication: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vacheron-constantin-historiques-triple-calendrier-1942-1942-american-1921-small/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques Triple Calendar</a>\n</li> <li>\nBudget: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.casio.com/us/search-result/?query=dwh5600&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=17250408842&utm_content=g&utm_term=g%20shock%20dw%20h5600&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwuJ2xBhA3EiwAMVjkVCI5OOxfltxwmW4Gv3XEI1_jRNf5SlE2Ta7UP5sRcojZaF09-WJUHxoCW8kQAvD_BwE&referrerPageUrl=&verticalUrl=en_US/index.html\%22 target=\"_blank\">G-Shock DW5600</a> (Casio.com)</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Danny"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b4eaaf9c-90cc-458b-8e0f-b1d658ecdd87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nSports: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-tudor-heritage-black-bay-blue/" target=\"_blank\">Original Tudor Black Bay \"Blue\"</a>\n</li> <li>\nDress: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-cartier-santos-dumont-that-stole-the-show/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquer (Rose Gold)</a>\n</li> <li>\nComplication: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-rd2-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Audemars Piguet RD#2 Ultra-Thin QP</a>\n</li> <li>\nBudget: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-definitive-story-of-moonswatch/" target=\"_blank\">Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch \"Neptune\"</a>\n</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"James"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2ccfe820-8250-4794-b419-3cd2278bdbd7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nSports: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/omega-seamaster-300m-2254-50-00-10-10-ome-meg810/" target=\"_blank\">Omega Seamaster Ref. 2554</a>\n</li> <li>\nDress: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-independent-brand-sbgw251-sbgw252-sbgw255-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko SBGW252</a>\n</li> <li>\nComplication: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-jaeger-lecoultre-deep-sea-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph</a>\n</li> <li>\nBudget: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.fratellowatches.com/hands-on-lume-dial-citizen-promaster-aqualand-depth-meter/#gref\" target=\"_blank\">Citizen Promaster Aqualand \"Lume Dial\"</a> (Fratello)</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tony"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4ce949c0-9d68-4e50-916c-3fd1791c876e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nSports: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-octo-finissimo-2022-10th-anniversary-sketch-les/" target=\"_blank\">Bulgari Octo Finissimo \"Sketch\" 10th Anniversary</a>\n</li> <li>\nDress: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.acollectedman.com/products/souscription-resonance-platinum/" target=\"_blank\">F.P. Journe Souscription Resonance</a>\n</li> <li>\nComplication: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-st/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 3670A Chronograph</a>\n</li> <li>\nBudget: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seiko-skx013-dive-watch-value-propositionn/" target=\"_blank\">Seiko SKX013</a>\n</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"poll_id":"b58ab7f7-d865-4cad-a454-72df683a6acf"},"type":"Block::Poll"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Editor's Choose Their Favorite Watches Of The 21st Century","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"6f45bda6-f3e7-40ee-9c74-d257a06dc06d","container_id":13362,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/22bc4726-9ac6-4c53-911d-b68296447e4d/H-Radio-Article-Hero-010.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee favorite watches of 21st century","created_at":"2024-04-23T17:08:12.509-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-24T11:44:12.260-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/22bc4726-9ac6-4c53-911d-b68296447e4d/H-Radio-Article-Hero-010.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/21st-century-fantasy-watch-draft","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: 21st Century Fantasy Watch Draft ","tags":["hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13312,"slug":"the-patek-philippe-5396g-annual-calendar-shines-bright","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar Shines Bright","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-23T11:05:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-15T09:22:00.068-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-23T14:30:50.047-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Patek's annual calendar Calatrava gets the full baguette treatment. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":34454,"public_token":"970306cd04254de92e73ecf5b938dd5c","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"This year at Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe introduced the white gold 5396G Annual Calendar, which adds a gradient blue dial and diamond baguette indices to the existing collection. \n\nThe 5396G is still a 5396, with a white gold case measuring 38.5 by 11.2mm and water resistant to 30 meters. Patek's caliber 26‑330 S QA LU 24H is visible through a sapphire caseback and powers the annual calendar, moonphase, and a center sweep seconds hand. The day and month sit in-line below 12 o'clock, while the date is cut out of the subdial at 6 o'clock.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0f34b66e-258b-4757-a5c6-35a4ed755a32"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The sunburst blue dial has a gradient that transitions to black by the minute track. The combination of the sunburst effect and smooth gradient has a subtle effect that keeps the dial more interesting than a typical flat treatment otherwise might. Sharp dauphine hands and a sweeping seconds finish off the look. The 5396G is delivered on a matching shiny blue alligator strap with a deployant clasp.\n\nThe Patek 5396G Annual Calendar has an MSRP of $63,510 – for reference, it's $6,000 more than the existing 5396R that remains in the catalog. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Taking a step back for a moment, the Patek 5396 Annual Calendar was introduced way back 2006 as the first annual annual calendar in a Calatrava-style case; remember, the first Patek annual calendar <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-commercially-complicated-patek-philippe-5035-annual-calendar/" target=\"_blank\">was only introduced a decade earlier</a>. Patek last updated the 5396 lineup in 2016 on the 20th anniversary of the complication. Now, the reference gets its most dressed-up treatment yet.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["51299c0a-2b26-42fd-8016-0ff08287b57e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["fc9ad88c-21d1-43f9-abf1-9c1e1d56d75e","03211cb7-cbcb-4519-a414-597aa5eaee35"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Patek has used the blue gradient dial and baguette indices combinations a few times now; I particularly appreciate it in the 5170P, Patek's first chronograph with an in-house caliber. Using the combination for its long-running annual calendar reference feels like a fitting tribute to the 5396. Doing it in platinum would've been a real statement, but perhaps platinum should stay (mostly) reserved for a higher comp like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-5236p-010-in-line-perpetual-calendar-now-with-salmon-dial/" target=\"_blank\">this year's 5236P</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd4d8f1f-f3a6-4551-a863-19663334306b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Is the 5396 worthy of the baguette treatment? I dunno, but whenever I think of the reference I remember John Mayer <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/fm370pg7bts7jj7jtcxz0b8ylio7hq/" target=\"_blank\">waxing poetically about the limited-edition 5396G for Tiffany & Co.</a> with a black dial and Breguet numerals. That watch was limited and more special than this version, but if the 5396 was good enough for Mayer and Tiffany & Co., surely it's befitting of baguette indices.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e87a1d7c-6eda-40da-8750-adb59260acc3","8f0655d2-8100-497d-baa8-205510e42d41"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"More broadly, baguette indices are one of my preferred modes of putting diamonds on a dial. It feels a bit more subdued than many other takes on diamond setting, as much as a bunch of diamonds can ever really be subdued. But it works well in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rexhep-rexhepi-cc2-ruby/" target=\"\">Rexhep Rexhepi's Rubis</a> or Diamont, and it looks to succeed here, too. Combined with the typical gradient blue dial, it makes for a compelling addition to Patek's annual calendar lineup.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f3a8952b-c718-445b-b460-bab8da4e3904"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Annual Calendar Reference Number: 5396G\n\nDiameter: 38.5mm Thickness: 11.2mm Case Material: White Dial Color: Gradient blue Indexes: Baguette indices Lume: No Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator with fold-over clasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Patek caliber 26‑330 S QA LU 24H Functions: Annual calendar, moonphase, sweep seconds Diameter: 33.3mm Thickness: 5.8mm Power Reserve: 35 hours Winding: automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Jewels: 45\n\nMSRP: $63,510\n\nFor more, check out the 5396G Annual Calendar <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5396G-017/" target=\"_blank\">on Patek's site</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of the New Patek Philippe 5396G","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":32009,"public_token":"664a7acf447910ac989b1e720cb3d872","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Since 2017, Cartier has dutifully reissued one of its classic shapes as part of its Cartier Privé collection. This year, one of the oldest takes its turn: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-tortue-is-back-and-as-a-monopusher-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">the Tortue</a>. Originally introduced in 1912 but also well-known for its neo-vintage era monopusher chronograph, the 2024 Tortue collection plays on both of these eras, featuring both two-handers and chronographs that should leave Cartier enthusiasts satisfied. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["23610f01-5541-4be5-954a-e6e2e63a81f2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier introduced the Tortue in 1912 (French for \"turtle\"), making it older than pretty much every Cartier shape except the Santos-Dumont (1904). By the 1920s, Cartier was adding complications like monopushers and minute repeaters to the shape, some of the first examples of Cartier blending its singular style with mechanical innovation. The Tortue Monopusher, Cartier's first chronograph, was a dainty proposition featuring calibers from European Watch & Clock Co., a joint venture between Cartier and Edmund Jaeger (Jaeger-LeCoultre). These early chronographs are extremely rare: less than 15 or so have ever surfaced. \n\nFor 2024, Cartier's brought this history back in a collection of limited editions: each of the chronographs and two-handers is limited to 200 numbered pieces in each metal – platinum or yellow gold. There's also a diamond-set platinum version limited to 50 pieces that we didn't get to see except through a display case. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The return of the Tortue monopusher (monopoussoir, in French) chronograph is most exciting. The yellow gold or platinum case measures 43.7mm x 34.8mm and 10.2mm thick, about the same size as the CPCP Monopusher. That said, the case looks to have been slightly reworked and I think it looks better. I think it's because the shape pinches more at the lugs, giving the polished case just a bit more shape.\n\nBoth dials have a Roman numeral track broken up by large subdials. The numerals on the platinum version are raised and rhodium-plated, while on the yellow gold, they're black and printed. Both have blued Breguet-style hands. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e8c41686-76ff-410d-af01-19eda1d091a5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial design of both is well executed. Cartier has certainly looked more towards those extremely rare 1920s Tortue monopushers for inspiration than the later CPCP. The design feels cleaner and more balanced compared to those neo-vintage CPCP chronographs. Both case metals have blued Breguet-style hands that contrast nicely against the opaline dial. To me, the yellow gold dial is more successful, with the Roman numerals offering a contrast that the monochromatic platinum execution doesn't have. Cartier made similar monochromatic choices with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-prive-normale/" target=\"_blank\">last year's Tank Normale</a>. Oddly, it's the second year in a row I've preferred the yellow gold Privé offering to the platinum.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["60df7550-8fb4-40d3-8fbe-396fbc88643e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4fe01429-39f2-4d7f-bafd-f820944c0fc9","1414a6af-ebbf-4915-a2b8-b86ef12c68ba"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The monopusher's sapphire caseback reveals the manufacture caliber 1928MC, a new movement that's a column wheel chronograph with Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges. It beats at 4 Hz and has a 44-hour power reserve. The hand-wound movement is noticeably reworked compared to the 1998 caliber that was built by THA, the Èbauche, the joint venture of watchmakers Vianney Halter, Danis Flageolett (De Bethune), and F.P. Journe. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["191f5093-5e9c-47f9-9968-0688c888c6bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Most notably, the caliber is now shaped to match the curves of the Tortue shape. It also features some of the finishing you'd expect for a $50,000-plus chronograph, including curved Geneva stripes and beveled bridges.\n\nThe platinum monopusher costs €53,000, while the yellow gold is €46,000. It's a well-executed, faithful update of the Tortue. And while there's certainly competition and you could find more innovative chronographs around, few blend aesthetics and technical as well as Cartier.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Time-Only Tortue"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["13d0e2d3-3ae1-4b6b-8bd9-061793e38185","c6fbca08-787a-4d6c-b53f-e5bcc3baffef"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Meanwhile, Cartier also released platinum and yellow gold time-only models to fill out the Tortue collection. Both measure 41.4mm x 32.9mm, noticeably larger than, say, last year's Tank Normale. I might prefer a touch smaller, but I have to admit they looked just fine on a few different wrist sizes (including mine) during our Cartier meeting. \n\nLike the monopushers, both feature an off-white opaline dial. Again, I prefer the black numerals on the yellow gold version, though as these pictures illustrate, at certain angles the raised numerals do provide additional contrast. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["09645781-399f-4fc1-8e96-773bca6ba0b6","740a62ee-8689-4e24-915f-0fac5286e0ef"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Unlike the CPCP two-hander Tortues, these are flat dials and don't feature any guilloché, which, in addition to displaying a continued commitment to a traditional technique (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-now-in-platinum-with-a-guilloche-dial/" target=\"_blank\">see Rolex 1908</a>), would've also helped to fill out the large dial. That said, the dial is cleaned up compared to the CPCP's, more reminiscent of a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-vintage-1970s-cartier-watches/" target=\"_blank\">1970s Tortue</a>, where the railroad track is pushed to the outside of the dial.\n\nOn both, I wish Cartier would've kept blued Breguet-style hands instead of matching them to the case color, though I'm glad they kept the hand style and didn't swap for simpler epée hands. Both are delivered on an alligator strap with platinum or gold buckle. Inside is Cartier's commonly-used caliber 430 MC, based on a manual wind Piaget caliber that beats at 3 Hz with 38-hour power reserve. \n\nBoth time-only Tortues are successful dress watches that add to the growing lineage of Cartier's modern Privé lineup. The platinum has a price of €31,100, while the yellow gold is €27,900. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["36cb207a-e738-44b0-bcd7-4e63e336da89"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Overall, this year's Tortue collection is a successful update of one of Cartier's oldest shapes. It pulls elements from every era of the Tortue: 1920s, '70s, and '90s, to arrive at something that's modern but rooted in history. While we've come to expect a Privé release like this every year since 2017, the return of a monopusher chronograph is the perfect example of how Cartier continues to surprise and delight its collectors.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review of Cartier Tortue Monopusher 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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Because we can.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":21657,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"This year is Piaget's 150th anniversary, and after digging into its heritage for the release of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/piaget-introduces-the-polo-79-a-golden-revival-of-the-80s/" target=\"_blank\">the Polo 79</a>, now it's showing off the technical watchmaking the manufacturer is most known for: ultra-thin. The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is just 2mm thick, the same thinness as the original <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/piaget-altiplano-ultimate-concept-watch-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">record-setting Altiplano from 2018</a>, but now Piaget has managed to add a tourbillon, making it the world's thinnest tourbillon. \n\nLet's not waste any time, here's what its profile looks like:","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["77ea7195-83e9-425b-b52f-b422aa1e48f6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new Piaget AUC features a cobalt blue case that's blue PVD-treated and measures 41.5x2mm. Most importantly, it's powered by the Piaget caliber 970P-UC, a manual caliber with a one-minute peripheral tourbillon and 40-hour power reserve. According to Piaget, it had to redesign 90 percent of the movement to accommodate a tourbillon, which requires 25 percent more power from the mainspring. It takes the title of world's thinnest tourbillon from the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, which comes in at a positively chunky 3.95mm. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e1be3e1d-041e-4da7-ae2e-8ba035a32e9b","e18a95f8-68b9-42bc-b1c1-f73139f1814f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the caliber has been reworked, the principle of the AUC stays the same: the case and movement are one. In other words, the movement's components are directly integrated into the caseback. The tourbillon rotates at 10 o'clock and the uncovered mainspring barrel sits prominently at 6 o'clock. The tourbillon uses ball bearings instead of pivots to rotate; this construction also allows Piaget to execute a sapphire opening in the caseback that makes the tourbillon visible.\n\nPrice is on request, but to give you an idea, the original record-breaking Altiplano Ultimate Concept (without tourbillon) had a price north of $400,000. So you'll have a thinner watch and wallet. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5cf12d7d-590a-49d4-a28e-0a39935ed163"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Even after picking up the Piaget AUC, it makes no sense. Like, you see the little tourbillon spinning inside, dutifully making its once-per-minute rotations, and you think to yourself, \"surely, a watch that's about as thick as my credit card can't accommodate a spinning cage, right?\" But it can and it does. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6b8f26e4-9ff8-432f-990e-b3d7b121d7b5","55ccb791-0be8-4ff3-b05f-11125d9e5a85"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In many ways, Piaget is ultra-thin watchmaking. While Bulgari has reclaimed the title of the world's thinnest watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-sets-a-new-record-again-for-the-worlds-thinnest-watch-with-the-new-octo-finissimo-ultra/" target=\"_blank\">with the new Octo Finissimo Ultra</a> (1.7mm thin), Piaget's after a different prize. I'm not sure my eyes are actually capable of perceiving the 0.3 difference between these two watches, nor can my mind comprehend how a tourbillon can spin freely in those cramped quarters. Or how Piaget managed to power that whirring mechanism? Sure, the manufacturer says it had to find a more powerful spring with a thicker blade, and it fit most of the gear train on ball bearings to minimize friction. \n\nYes, I want Piaget to focus more on finding ways to revisit its heritage. But ultra-thin watchmaking is in its blood, too. With all of these watches chasing ultra-thin superlatives, we're well beyond the realm of practicality. Brands are shaving tenths of a millimeter off of millimeters just because they can. \n\nThe Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is a watch that has to be seen to be believed, but even after that, I'm not sure I comprehend it. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Piaget Altiplano Concept Tourbillon features a blue cobalt case measuring 41.5x2mm. The Piaget caliber 970P-UC is a manual-wind movement with peripheral one-minute tourbillon and 40-hour power reserve. Price upon request. For more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.piaget.com/high-watchmaking-signatures/altiplano-ultimate-concept-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\">Piaget.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review The World's Thinnest Tourbillon: The New Piaget Altiplano Concept Tourbillon","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e8d92424-2f8d-4767-881d-19d8779778a2","container_id":13307,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/2ca6c30e-1fd1-497b-a503-a9c56197e292/DSC_0774.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"piaget altiplano concept tourbillon thinnest world record","created_at":"2024-04-12T04:59:03.662-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-12T06:24:44.332-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/2ca6c30e-1fd1-497b-a503-a9c56197e292/DSC_0774.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-piaget-altiplano-concept-tourbillon-the-worlds-thinnest-tourbillon","full_title":"Introducing: The Piaget Altiplano Concept Tourbillon, The World's Thinnest Tourbillon (Live Pics)","tags":["piaget","introducing","piaget-altiplano","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13302,"slug":"the-latest-addition-to-the-tag-heuer-glassbox-adds-a-panda-dial-and-bracelet-to-the-carrera","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Latest Addition To The TAG Heuer Glassbox Adds A Panda Dial And Bracelet To The Carrera","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-11T05:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-10T20:04:15.533-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-14T12:13:59.470-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A new Carrera that's equal parts heritage and modern. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":29374,"public_token":"abe15584bac4a060bebba361bb459d1b","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"When I spent <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-39mm-its-time-to-care-about-the-carrera-again/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist with the new TAG Heuer Carrera \"Glassbox\"</a> last year, there was one thing I wish I'd mentioned: it would've been better with a bracelet, or at least, the option of a bracelet. \n\nNow, we've got it. The newest addition to the Glassbox lineup makes a reference to the vintage Carrera ref. 7753SN, but in the updated 39mm second-gen Glassbox case. By addressing a few of the most common criticisms of last year's Glassbox, it shows TAG's commitment to evolving the model and it might be my favorite of the growing Carrera Glassbox collection (okay, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-gold/" target=\"_blank\">the gold one</a> is still the best).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a3584a1c-6a9d-4511-af9e-69e63f9b08b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new Carrera Glassbox (ref. CBS2216.BA0041) uses the same stainless steel case we saw in last year's black and blue dial models measuring 39 x 13.86mm (46mm lug-to-lug). As I've mentioned, the lugs feel a bit short, but this also means it's compact on the wrist. The dial is a sunray silver with black subdials, and there are red accents on the hands, chrono hand tip, and minute track. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bbe0efaa-f77d-4f7a-8412-e273ffa91977","cc0487f0-ee36-4760-ae4b-c6d760af41a6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside the Carrera Glassbox is the manufacture caliber TH20-00. It's an impressive, automatic chronograph movement that beats at 4 Hz and has an 80-hour power reserve. Even with the new bracelet, the movement's specs are pretty much unmatched at this price. The TH20-00 is the next generation of the caliber Heuer 02, the in-house movement <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/tag-heuer-calibre-heuer-02-carrera-monaco/" target=\"\">TAG introduced in 2017</a>. It has a column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism, exactly what you'd ask of a luxury, in-house chronograph caliber. The caliber is visible through the sapphire caseback. The industrial finishing isn't much to look at, but it's always fun to see a column wheel, basically the on-off switch for the chronograph mechanism, in action.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["49749929-31b5-483a-85ce-f722ca068071"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I've written <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-39mm-its-time-to-care-about-the-carrera-again/" target=\"_blank\">and talked</a> at length about how the Glassbox feels on my wrist so I won't belabor points I've made before: compact, wearable, with this sloped dial that, over the course of wearing one for a week, went from weird to downright compelling. \n\nLast year, TAG Heuer introduced <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/tag-heuer-carrera-chronograph-39mm-with-blue-dial/" target=\"_blank\">a blue</a> and black dial Glassbox and it was pretty easy to categorize the two: blue = modern, black = heritage-inspired. But this year's panda rises above the blue and black because it does a better job of blending the two. It takes the vintage inspiration of the 7753SN panda, but introduces just a few more modern cues. While I'm still not sure about the phantom running seconds and cutout date at 6 o'clock, the red accents work for me. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Glassbox's weirdest feature is probably its concave dial, which slopes upwards to fill in the tall sapphire crystal. But this new version puts the tachymeter in black, giving the visual effect of breaking up that slope. I think it's a great design choice and makes the dial more successful than either of last year's models.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f1e15d49-567a-40ce-9ad1-3e5eca920c09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The bracelet is a simple three-link that's fully brushed. The folding clasp is polished and has double-trigger push buttons to open it. It's comfortable, articulates around the wrist nicely, and has full and half links that should make it easy enough to find a decent fit. It's the same bracelet design we see on the three-hand Carrera Dates.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Carrera deserves a good bracelet. So many vintage Heuer Carreras were delivered on beautiful Gay Freres bracelets, it felt a bit incomplete that the option wasn't at least offered in the catalog. While I think the look of the three-link bracelet works just fine for the Glassbox, I would've loved to see TAG really lean into the heritage of those GF bracelets to come up with something new for what's become its flagship Carrera chronograph. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"That said, TAG Heuer has said the retail of the new panda Carrera on bracelet will be CHF 6,500, which should only be a touch over the $6,450 (CHF $6,300) MSRP on a strap. It's not an innovative new bracelet, but TAG Heuer also isn't upcharging you like it is. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"With the addition of a new heritage-inspired dial and a bracelet, TAG Heuer seems to be showing us its commitment to making the Carrera Glassbox something of a flagship for the brand. It's a strong forward step for the collection, and I'm excited to see what's next. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox (ref. CBS2216.BA0041) measures 39 x 13.86mm (46mm lug-to-lug) and is water resistant to 100 meters. Delivered on a three-link stainless steel bracelet. MSRP CHF 6,500. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":29564,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"To a certain type of person, Patek Philippe is world timers and world timers are Patek Philippe. While Patek didn't invent the complication, it's become strongly associated with the brand over the decades, in large part because of well-executed references like the new 5330G.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["47f9aa09-8b7a-40ad-bb26-bcd9e03a005c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Patek introduced the 5330G at last year's Tokyo Grand Exhibit as a limited edition of 300 and only for the Japanese market. Now, it's bringing the new World Time reference to its general catalog with an opaline blue-grey dial. The carbon pattern in the center of the dial calls to mind the 6007A Calatrava introduced to celebrate the opening of its new manufacture in 2020. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b45b01c3-a5e7-48c8-b1d9-b94fb4c012e0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["25bca98b-9fb9-47c9-9d83-1e00c93da0ad","a5a0dd87-dc80-4450-b5ab-1e6fbd967158"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The 5330G is powered by the new Patek caliber 240 HU C, which Patek introduced in last year's LE. It's a world timer with 24-hour day/night indication for each time zone, but it's most notable for being the first world time that has a date that faithfully tracks the local (i.e., 12-hour) time. According to Patek, it's done this while adding less than a millimeter of thickness to the caliber. It's the type of practical mechanical innovation that Patek continues to do as well as any manufacturer, in particular in its world and travel time watches. The caliber 240 is an automatic movement that beats at 3 Hz and has a 38-48-hour power reserve. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3740c301-a718-4a52-8f89-2566e3a5cc9b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The white gold case measures 40 x 11.57mm. It's well proportioned and wears thin on the wrist, exactly what you want from the dressier side of Patek. The lugs are compact and keep the 5330G wearable, even given its slightly larger diameter. The round case and stepped lugs feel heritage inspired, appropriate for a classic complication like a world timer. \n\nWhile the Japanese limited edition had a guilloché purple dial that was certainly an acquired taste, the main catalog 5330G plays it down the middle with a blue-grey opaline. The textured carbon pattern in the middle of the dial contrasts with the smooth world timer rings. A glass date pointer that's tipped with red feels like a considered touch. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6d605593-0510-40f5-bb0f-6c8104abadba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Somewhat provocatively, Patek has paired a denim-style calfskin strap with the 5330G, just as it has with the updated 5980G. For awhile, we've been saying it wouldn't hurt brands like Patek to deliver its modern dressier watches on something besides the oh-so-formal alligator, so I like seeing something new from Patek. As we mentioned on the first Watches & Wonders episode of Hodinkee Radio, it calls to mind the brown denim-adjacent strap on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguets-collaboration-with-rapper-and-mogul-travis-scott/" target=\"_blank\">AP's Travis Scott collab</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"A Patek world timer isn't going to set the world on fire. It's simply Patek doing what it's always done, just making it about 10 percent better – in this case, that means a practical innovation that makes the watch just that much more usable. But the 5330G World Time is a well executed, modern take on an old-school complication, and that's exactly the type of thing we like to see from Patek Philippe. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 5330G World Time has a white gold case measuring 40x11.5mm, water resistant to 30 meters. The Patek caliber 240 HU C powers a world time with local date and a day/night indication for all time zones. It's delivered on a Calfskin, \"denim pattern,\" blue-gray strap. MSRP: $76,594.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review Of Patek Philippe 5330G World Time","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"James Stacey","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":47454,"public_token":"7ed7bc196241c57cdf9fcf3e664b0889","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Last year, Rolex introduced the Perpetual 1908, an entire new collection of dress watches that replaced the long-running Cellini. It was a solid, if slightly plain, take on a dress watch by Rolex.\n\nThis year, Rolex is introducing the 1908 Perpetual in platinum, adding a \"rice-grain\" guilloché pattern to an icy-blue dial. It's enough to turn the 1908 into a compelling proposition, and while Rolex had a quieter slate of releases this year, the 1908 feels like a standout.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9a925a2d-76a4-49dd-a459-068d0fdf9adf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like last year's gold 1908 models, the 950 platinum measures 39x9.5mm. As is typical with Rolex, it pairs the platinum case with an icy blue dial. But it also features what the brand calls a \"rice-grain\" guilloché pattern, along with a second, different pattern outside of the minute track. Rolex says the dial uses traditional guilloché engine-turning machinery and technique, but – as you might imagine – it's not exactly like a single craftsperson is operating a lathe nowadays. To me, the texture looks more subtle in person than it appeared in the first press images we saw from Rolex. \n\nWhile I appreciated last year's 1908, a 39mm dress watch that's mostly dial felt a bit empty. Now, the guilloché fills out the dial in a way that feels more interesting than last year's iterations. The pattern radiates from the center, and Rolex uses a different, crimped, guilloché to finish off the dial around the minute track. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd79c39d-0371-4f7f-b23e-479620f25bef"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["faefae30-d4cb-4862-a5d9-6a95330b7024","7a8201b4-70e1-4863-98f2-19f3dfa256e5"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside and visible through the nude caseback is the same Rolex caliber 7140 introduced in last year's 1908. As I mentioned in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-might-just-be-the-dressy-rolex-weve-been-waiting-for/" target=\"\">last year's review</a>, the cal. 7140 uses Rolex's Syloxi silicon hairspring, something that, until last year, had been reserved for smaller models like the 31mm Datejust. As Danny has <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/new-rolex-oyster-perpetual-34-release-you-probably-missed-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">explored</a>, it's notable to see Rolex continue down the path of using two different kinds of hairsprings across its models. Oh, and it's the first time Rolex is pairing a Syloxi hairspring with its Chronergy escapement. Other than that, the caliber 7140 has everything you might expect from Rolex: Superlative chronometer, 66-hour power reserve, gold automatic rotor, beating at 4 Hz.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7fa3a55f-e6d0-40ec-9b69-a1674a954737"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["71d43f6f-7437-4a9f-aa8e-046034e33966","52507780-8ad9-46d7-94cf-8282e088e3a2"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex pairs the platinum 1908 with a matte brown or black alligator strap and a platinum deployant clasp, lined green on the inside. Rolex calls the collection 1908 in reference to the year in which Hans Wisdorf trademarked the term \"Rolex,\" but it actually takes inspiration from later vintage Bubblebacks. In 2023, Rolex displayed <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CxaRrOXrz1_/?img_index=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">this vintage Bubbleback</a> at Watches & Wonders, implying that it took inspiration from models like it for the 1908. The influence is clear in the dial layout and numerals, even if there's no denying the superior charm of a vintage Bubbleback. \n\nThe 1908 is a large and modern platinum dress watch, but I continue to find the profile quite wearable. It's thin and the partially fluted bezel isn't as loud as going full flute. While it's a dress watch with a sapphire caseback, it's still got 50 meters of water resistance. Having had a year with the 1908 now, my biggest design choice to quibble with is probably the hands. Of course, the hour hand makes reference to vintage observatory-style hands, but I'm not sure it works on the 1908. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eaf76d15-3ca5-44d1-9261-68442e3ecbb8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The platinum 1908 is a fine dress watch that costs $30,900. I won't necessarily claim that it's the best watch at its price point or even the best dress watch at its price.\n\nPerhaps most interesting to me is how Rolex has positioned its growing Perpetual 1908 as \"a tribute to the classic art of watchmaking.\" This is exactly the right way to think about the collection, something that's not in opposition, but complementary to, its \"Professional\" sports watches. For me, the \"classic art of watchmaking\" should mean exploring things like craftsmanship and complications. Rolex doing guilloché certainly feels like the former, but I hope there's more of both in the future of the 1908. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ce27593f-8499-4cc6-8a40-12fb653025ba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For $30,000, you can get a lot of nice watches from a lot of great brands. Head on over to Tudor, for example, and you can get one of those new 18k gold Black Bay 58s for a cool $32,000 (!). Not that the two are competitive with each other, but if Tudor's going to make a dive watch that costs 30 grand, we have to mention it, right? If a dressy Cartier is more your vibe, that new platinum Tortue is just about the same price. We could go on. The point isn't that any of these watches is better (or worse) than the others, but that Rolex doesn’t have the same differentiation in this space that its built over the last few decades with its sports watches. But, the platinum 1908 is a solid new dress watch, which is more than good enough. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Rolex Perpetual 1908 in platinum measures 39x9.5mm and has 50 meters of water resistance. It uses Rolex's caliber 7140, an automatic movement with 66-hour power reserve and gold rotor that beats at 4 Hz. MSRP: $30,900. For more, visit the 1908 collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/1908/" target=\"_blank\">on Rolex's site</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review Of The Rolex 1908 Collection","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":34952,"public_token":"d4eb00a825e2c9ecd291c133189b285e","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"This year's addition to the Cartier Privè collection is one of the house's oldest shapes, the Tortue. But unlike most years, this time around, we've also got a complication: a monopusher chronograph that calls back to the Tortue chronos from the 1920s, as well as the 1998 CPCP edition with ties to some serious indie watchmakers. The 2024 Tortue collection is completed with a trio of time-only models, one that's diamond set. All are limited: the diamond-free chronographs and two-handers are all limited to 200 numbered pieces in each metal, platinum or yellow gold. The diamond-set platinum model is limited to 50 pieces.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7a727585-aef9-4a3b-8282-4ea0820af585"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier introduced the Tortue in 1912, making it older than pretty much every Cartier shape except the Santos-Dumont (1904). Tortue is French for \"turtle,\" but the combination of curved and straight lines make for a shape that's more elegant than most leatherbacks I've met. \n\nThe return of the Tortue monopusher (monopoussoir, in French) chronograph is the biggest news, so let's start there. The platinum or yellow gold case measures 43.7mm x 34.8mm and 10.2mm thick. It's about the same size as the CPCP Monopusher, but the movement inside is completely different. A sapphire caseback reveals Cartier's manufacture caliber 1928MC, a new movement that's a column wheel chronograph with Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges. It beats at 4 Hz and has a 44-hour power reserve. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Both the gold and platinum have a silver opaline dial, but the platinum version has applied, rhodium-plated Roman numerals, while the gold version has printed black numerals. Blued, Breguet-style hands complete the look. The monopusher chronograph is limited to 200 numbered pieces in each metal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3b2dec13-512e-40b3-bea4-70093da57524"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The hours-and-minutes Tortue uses the same design cues as the chronograph, but in a slightly smaller case that measures 42.4mm x 32.9mm and 7.2mm thick. Inside is Cartier's caliber 430 MC, essentially a re-branded Piaget 430P that beats at 3 Hz with a relatively low 38-hour power reserve. Like the chronograph, the time-only Tortues are available in platinum and yellow gold, limited to 200 pieces each. In addition, Cartier threw in a platinum version that's set with 54 brilliant-cut diamonds, and there'll only be 50 of those. \n\nScroll to the end for pricing on each of the five models, which will be available this fall. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["25276817-8dae-4ec1-b441-c62af933fcdb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I'll just say up front that the Tortue is one of my favorite shapes from Cartier. The way the case curves to meet those straight lugs captures so much of what I love about Cartier – romantic but rigid, Art Deco but also totally modern. (Yes, I have a '70s Tortue.)\n\nAnd it's not just the shape. The Tortue pre-dates the Tank, so it's got the heritage, too. It even has a modern pedigree, since in 1998 Cartier chose the Tortue as the home for its monopusher chronograph caliber developed in conjunction with THA Èbauche, the join-venture of legendary watchmakers Vianney Halter, Danis Flageolet (De Bethune), and F.P. Journe. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["894e91a7-b9c6-4035-a0fc-8f9a8dab2146"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, Cartier's brought all that history back by bringing the Tortue to the Cartier Privè collection. I'm excited to get hands-on with these, especially the monopusher: Cartier hasn't told us much about the movement, but says it's a new column-wheel chronograph that measures just 4.3mm thick and touts its various finishing techniques, including Côtes de Genève, bevelling, and so on. More to come!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Chronograph\n\nBrand: Cartier Model: Tortue Reference Number: WHTTO0008 (platinum) WHTO0007 (yellow gold)\n\nDiameter: 43.7mm x 34.8mm Thickness: 10.2mm (sapphire caseback) Case Material: Platinum or yellow gold Dial Color: Silvered opaline Water Resistance: No Strap/Bracelet: Alligator strap, platinum or gold buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f0ec6a08-3c47-41b2-b6ac-a2301591430b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Manufacture caliber 1928 MC Functions: Chronograph Thickness: 4.3mm Power Reserve: 44 hours Winding: Manual Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Chronometer Certified: No Additional Details: Column wheel chronograph; Côtes de Genève ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Time only\n\nBrand: Cartier Model: Tortue Reference Number: WGTO008, WGTO006 (platinum and yellow gold time only); WJTO0010 (diamond-set platinum)\n\nDiameter: 41.4mm x 32.9mm Thickness: 7.2mm Case Material: Platinum or yellow gold Dial Color: Silvered opaline Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator strap, platinum or gold buckle ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Cartier caliber 430 MC (Piaget 430P) Functions: Chronograph Thickness: 4.3mm Power Reserve: 38 hours Winding: Manual Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour Chronometer Certified: No","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Availability: September 2024 (time only); October 2024 (chronograph) Limited Edition: Yes, 200 numbered pieces of each metal for the time only and chronograph; platinum, diamond-set is limited to 50 pieces Price: \n\n<ul> <li>Platinum monopusher: €53,000</li> <li>Yellow gold monopusher: €46,000</li> <li>Platinum time only: €31,100</li> <li>Yellow gold time only: €27,900</li> <li>Diamond-set platinum: €53,100 \n</li>\n</ul>\n\nFor more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cartier.com/en-us/watches/collections//" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Watches</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of The Cartier Tortue and Monopusher Chronograph 2024 ","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":14769,"public_token":"cdfdba708e5307033847815c36e2d4ef","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Chopard has added a handsome green sector-style dial to its L.U.C XPS collection. The L.U.C XPS Forest Green features a familiar 40mm Lucent Steel case and Chopard's in-house, COSC-certified microrotor that adds a touch of vintage charm to the collection.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b060b64-4165-4979-8703-42842b97e023"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"L.U.C is Chopard's high-end collection, defined by its in-house calibers made at the brand's manufacturer in Fleurier. The L.U.C XPS features Chopard's caliber 96.12-L, a Geneva Seal, chronometer grade movement. It's beautiful and technically impressive, with Geneva stripes, a 65-hour power reserve, and a gold microrotor swinging 'round. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The forest green dial is the big update here, a sector-style dial that fills out the large, 40mm diameter nicely. It has a green sunburst finish, broken up by the rhodium-plated markers that match the hands. The Lucent Steel – that's Chopard's proprietary alloy that's made of 80 percent recycled materials – case measures a large and thin 40mm x 7.2mm.\n\nThe Chopard L.U.C XPS Lucent Steel will retail at $11,800. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eef77c92-9e67-4994-bc27-885b717165be"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The dials in the existing L.U.C XPS collection have always seemed a little stale to me. At least, there's not a lot going on for a watch with a lot of real estate to work with. The sector dial, with its concentric rings designed to help tell time more accurately, fixes this issue. Sector dials straddle the Art Deco and Bauhaus eras, using the geometric patterns of the former to accomplish the \"form follows function\" ethos of the latter. \n\nI'm not going to sit here and gush about a simple dial change to the existing L.U.C XPS <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-luc-1860-in-lucent-steel/" target=\"_blank\">like I did last year's copper-dial 1860</a>, but it looks like a nice addition to the collection.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["70185f68-5973-40f4-bd4c-787a92e22793"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Chopard Model: L.U.C XPS Reference Number: 168629-3001\n\nDiameter: 40mm Thickness: 7.2mm Case Material: Lucent Steel Dial Color: Forest Green Indexes: Rhodium-plated hands and markers Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Brown calfskin leather strap with ecru stitching, steel pin buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: L.U.C 96.12-L Functions: Small seconds Diameter: 27.4mm Thickness: 3.3mm Power Reserve: 65 hours Winding: Automatic (micro-rotor) Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Jewels: 29 Chronometer Certified: Yes Additional Details: COSC certified caliber with twin barrels, also features Cotes de Geneve and flat terminal curve","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $11,800\n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.chopard.com/en-us/" target=\"_blank\">visit Chopard</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of Chopard. Explore more <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/chopard-brand/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing The Chopard L.U.C XPS With A Sector Green Dial","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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