Editor — Mark Kauzlarich

Sergio Alfonso on Instagram</a>. The watch is an Audemars Piguet, specifically a Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon with a salmon dial and diamond baguette-set bezel. This watch resembles one in Audemars Piguet's catalog, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/26531TI.OO.1220TI.01.html/">ref. 26531TI</a>, with a radial \"sunburst Tapisserie dial\" and titanium done in 30 pieces. There is also a version with Eastern Arabic numerals, but this isn't either of those. It's even crazier. The watch has a dial that spells out \"Tom VII Brady\", with his name in diamonds and the VII (for his number of Super Bowls) in sapphires. And hey, if you're Brady and you're going to have friends make mean jokes about you all night, why not do it while wearing a truly special and unique watch?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a7096a37-1852-4a3d-b70c-0d473790baba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bdfd7fc6-cad1-4f66-a64c-25b23ea05ba9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"All photos courtesy Getty Images.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":22,"slug":"watch_spotting","name":"Watch Spotting","description":"Photo-first, event-driven articles that feature photography from news and wire agencies. The focus may be on one watch or multiple watches from a single event.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.241-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-06T14:24:41.017-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"c0939dc9-2a65-4d03-b2ea-6e005cec4eda","container_id":13391,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/d8a7d6f8-2549-464c-9e22-8adb35831149/GettyImages-2151626840.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Lando Norris RM67-02 High Jump","created_at":"2024-05-06T11:34:04.245-04:00","updated_at":"2024-05-06T11:34:04.245-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/d8a7d6f8-2549-464c-9e22-8adb35831149/GettyImages-2151626840.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-lando-norris-tom-brady-ed-sheeran","full_title":"Watch Spotting: Lando Norris Celebrates Winning The Formula 1 Miami Grand Prix Wearing Richard Mille","tags":["watch-spotting","celebrities","formula-one","ed-sheeran","tom-brady","lando-norris"]},{"id":13314,"slug":"hands-on-laurent-ferrier-classic-moon","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-30T16:00:02.184-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-15T15:47:50.305-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-30T16:01:52.148-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The brand takes cues from the classic designs with the quintessential Laurent Ferrier twist.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":24316,"public_token":"1b8c4e4dabe4ab95ec27159ca6c3e82d","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Laurent Ferrier has been on many people's minds at Hodinkee lately. But the relationship between Hodinkee and Laurent Ferrier goes back a lot further. The brand is one of Hodinkee's earliest collaborators. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-laurent-ferrier-sport-auto/" target=\"_blank\">Sport Auto release that I reviewed last year</a> put Laurent Ferrier back on my radar as an alternative to the mainstream integrated bracelet sport choices that have been so popular the last few years. But the brand's release at Watches & Wonders this year also scratches my far-more-classic itch. This is the Classic Moon, an annual calendar moonphase watch in the brand's \"Classic\" case shape from 2010.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3de60a1a-0121-4f7b-8217-1f86f5b44c33"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For a few years, I've been hoping for Patek Philippe to update ref. 5396 back to something closer to the ref. 2497 perpetual calendar design (or even ref. 3448). The center-second design of the 5396, with the date aperture at 6 o'clock, harms what otherwise could be a classic design. Luckily, Laurent Ferrier gets a lot closer in many ways with the Classic Moon. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dd03e7f1-70df-4397-9fd8-9769c9a9ea6f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Classic Moon was one of the more subtly charming watches of Watches & Wonders. Offered in stainless steel or 18k rose gold cases measuring 40mm by 12.9mm thick, the watch wears smaller on the wrist due to the longer lug length that you would find on something made by Antoine Gerlach for Patek, but without the distinctive angular shape, let alone a steeper downturn of a Vichet 2499 lug. Instead, the lugs have a very polished and smooth line, mimicking the rest of the case shape. I'll come back to that design shortly. In steel, the watch is offered with an opaline grey-blue dial and white-painted hands, while the rose gold case is paired with a vertically brushed silver dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial layout is simpler than the annual calendar 5396, but the calendar is still approached differently than the aforementioned vintage perpetual calendars from Patek. The watch has apertures for the day of the week and month at the top of the dial and a luminous moonphase at 6 o'clock, with a double display for the northern and southern hemispheres. In the middle of that moonphase is a hand that tracks a slightly larger subsidiary second subdial. The watch also features a date indicator track around the case edge, with a central pointer. All of this is housed under a domed sapphire without AR coating, an intentional decision to let the reflections play off the dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9fd5b111-66d4-41de-86bb-45c78cafc82e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This is the brand's first-ever moonphase complication, with a subdial made of Aventurine glass from Murano artisans, engraved in moon and star motifs with hand-applied white paint for the details. That engraving is hand-filled with Super-LumiNova, which is again engraved for the craters on the moon. That subdial is covered with a translucent disc in petrol blue enamel, which feels like a modern touch. The brushed vertical dial on the silver dial is also very contemporary. That's core to what Laurent Ferrier has done here: take something very traditional and nostalgic, and move it into present day.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f50e2fd9-9277-4b20-8591-3257ea4c81d0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The bevelled windows and transfer-printed Roman numerals, chemin de fer minute track in petrol blue color, and the Assegai-shaped Ruthenium or painted white hands bring the watch back into the line of classic watches. While the Roman numerals remind me more of classic grandfather clocks than what I would have chosen if I was designing the watch, I think it's those very things that captured people's nostalgia and resulted in a lot of messages to my Instagram after I posted a phone photo of the watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5927747f-e535-433e-9385-a21d405d5a73"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new release is powered by the LF126.02 manually wound caliber, seen through a sapphire caseback. This updated movement is based on the previous LF126.01 annual calendar, now with an 80-hour power reserve. Out of 266 components, 30 have been added, and 20 have been revised and optimized. The movement features a power reserve indicator and the long blade ratchet pawl found in Laurent Ferrier's manual movements. As an annual calendar, it adjusts for 30 and 31-day months, while it needs adjustment in February.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["af9e3768-d34d-4bc7-b5a8-5efa20209d6e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The LF126.02 has a polished bassiné finish, plates with Rhodium-treated Côtes de Genève decoration, and a circular-grained main plate is circular graining. If you like to count the interior angles of your movements, you might be slightly disappointed as Laurent Ferrier's larger, fuller plates mean that while you get hand-beveled and polished edges and interior angles, there are fewer of them. Each recessed screw head in the movement is finished in this style, but that's often not as captivating as a more open movement design. Yet it's a part of Laurent Ferrier's DNA that has grown on me.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8d93dcef-ab1b-4e8b-8c36-22730fa41350"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6955a038-efbe-4505-a282-9d9efd66c54e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"There's a push and pull with my feelings toward the Classic Moon. Part of that lies in the \"Classic\" case shape. Can you really love something if you want to change it slightly? An inherent part of Laurent Ferrier's \"Classic\" design is the gentle, sloping shape, from the bezel to the larger ball-shaped crown (which sets the date and time of the annual calendar, while an adjuster sets the moonphase). The shape of 19th-century pocket watches of similar design inspires this \"pebble\" case. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["892e1eaf-c222-4f41-98f1-38e06a96c3de"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It really is an elegant, classic shape with a larger bezel that reminds me of the bezel-to-dial ratio of the Patek ref. 3448. But one of the successes of the 3448 is the angular portions of the case. The lines are clean, but strong. Here, it almost looks like a watch that has been polished over decades of wear. To some, that may be charming, but for me, I still might wish for something stronger.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5bae8211-5483-43bc-af60-0ef0776b9765"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"That's not enough to deter me or stop me from recommending the watch, as it really did look and feel wonderful on the wrist. The grey-blue opaline dial is far and away my favorite – maybe I haven't gotten to the \"precious metal stage of my life\" as Ben likes to call it. The blue dial is far bolder and lends some versatility to the watch, especially with a white metal that can be dressed up and down.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5c874c8b-f0ca-4a95-8dbf-7e9676952f1d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The finish on the dial, while still in that modern vein with the light graining, seems a bit more classic than the brushed silver, though the white text seems a bit less bold and defined on the surface. But the combination of white and power-blue test is fun and casual. The use of white indicators in the aperture makes sense, in this instance, as it increases legibility.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["cb19f193-ea2a-403e-b876-aadf6d533cb0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0a770d7d-ffda-477a-93be-19d61ef20e61","77ba8c2a-0b17-4efb-98bb-51a0cbea187a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Choosing the blue dial is probably the decision you make when looking for one watch to do many things – the place I'd find myself now if picking between the two. I'd guess most buyers will gravitate toward the rose-gold case because it will fill a specialized space in their collection. At CHF 70,000 in steel and CHF 80,000 in rose gold, the watch is an expensive proposition. Compared to the $63,510 price tag (just shy of CHF 58,000) on the Patek ref. 5396G, you're paying a CHF 22,000 premium to get a gold-cased annual calendar from an independent watchmaker. But the charm of the design will likely be enough to woo over collectors. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["07433b79-f815-49a8-b850-826c883cdfef"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon, ref. LCF039.R5.G3N or LCF039.AC.C1WC, 4omm diameter by 12.9mm thick stainless steel or 18k rose gold case, with 30m water resistance. Grey-blue opaline or vertical satin-finished silver, Assegai-shaped, painted white or treated with Ruthenium. Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, annual calendar with moonphase, and dial-edge date track. Manual-winding Calibre LF126.02 movement, set by the crown (except moonphase set by two adjusters) running at 3Hz with 80 hours of power reserve. Dark grey Nubuck or Brown Calf, hand-sewn, tone-on-tone Alcantara lining with pin-buckle to match the case. Price: CHF 70,000 (steel) and CHF 80,000 (rose gold).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"4339886f-0558-4bba-ba8b-55c8023db869","container_id":13314,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/728777bb-e67c-4812-bd64-35b6005a4f85/20240411_LFClassicMoon_004.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon","created_at":"2024-04-15T15:47:50.337-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-15T15:47:50.337-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/728777bb-e67c-4812-bd64-35b6005a4f85/20240411_LFClassicMoon_004.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-laurent-ferrier-classic-moon","full_title":"Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon","tags":["laurent-ferrier","independent-watches","hands-on","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13367,"slug":"hands-on-twelve-x-christopher-ward","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Twelve X From Christopher Ward","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-29T13:02:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-25T10:32:14.491-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-30T10:31:12.873-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The watch is a striking skeletonized celebration of 20 years of brand history and 10 years of the Caliber SH21 in-house movement.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":29207,"public_token":"da889f5f0b831655a8ec68cb285f7069","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Christopher Ward's \"The Twelve\" X is the brand's most recent take on the integrated bracelet design. It's a watch that has produced a lot of buzz in recent days, and I even got many questions about it in my Instagram messages. Luckily, I was able to see and experience – and shoot – this latest release. I have thoughts and am ready to bring you my take on the new \"The Twelve X.\" ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eca1b90e-4159-4213-8436-5f7e5ce6ce7a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new release is a 41mm by 12.3mm titanium, integrated-bracelet watch to celebrate Christopher Ward's 20th anniversary and the 10th anniversary of the COSC-certified, in-house calibre SH21 automatic movement, now machine-finished and skeletonized to a strong, dramatic effect. The watch even has a fantastic quick adjustment mechanism on the clasp. But Christopher Ward has done several variations of The Twelve since the original announcement back in April of 2023. That includes the 36mm version and Ti 40 (40mm titanium version) shown below. So what took me so long?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["35a817eb-f38f-40c1-bf14-3408ac7f785c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Twelve doesn't reinvent the wheel of design. With an integrated bracelet, angular case, and textural dial, The Twelve instantly reminds me of a number of watches, from the iconic (the Royal Oak comes to mind, as well as the Laureato and the Overseas) to the more recent and modern integrated bracelet designs like the Tissot PRX and – even more on the nose – the Czapek Antarctique. I don't mean that as a criticism, but a statement of fact.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["942f40f0-01da-49bb-9977-f3741c798a38"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When I first wrote about Christopher Ward, it was for their tour de force <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-c1-bel-canto/" target=\"_blank\">that is the Bel Canto</a>. It's a watch that I still admire for democratizing the sonnerie au passage to an affordable price point. But it, too, had a striking similarity to watches from MB&F. And that's okay. We're talking about things at vastly different price points and in no way is Christopher Ward purporting to be MB&F, but those kinds of design elements don't need to be reserved for only the rich, so if Christopher Ward can crack the code, as it has frequently, then more power to them. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["39f9f73e-0c0b-4bbd-b5cf-7d7023eded82"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When I saw the first edition of The Twelve, I immediately recognized the inspiration again. Looking back, I appreciate <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.fratellowatches.com/introducing-christopher-wards-take-on-the-integrated-bracelet-sports-watch-the-twelve-live-pictures/#gref\" target=\"_blank\">how Fratello approached the release.</a> They highlighted the interesting similarities but arrived at the same opinion I have after playing with the Titanium 40 I'm sharing below. Yes, to me, the look and feel of the watch against the CHF 22,000 Czapek Antarctique is obviously similar (take a look at the dial texture, date window placement, and shape of the indices). But that doesn't mean the Twelve is a bad watch or a copy. I'll be clear: this watch is fun, comfortable to wear, a great achievement with solid finishing and a COSC-certified chronometer movement, and shockingly affordable at $1,895. The new model, The Twelve X, is all that and more.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b43e6692-c63d-4c5a-b367-51f097067588","2bf437f0-56f0-4515-a3dd-10e3f967cf12"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3aa9e099-1aae-471d-b2aa-623ecfc09c3f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a130753b-4234-4f68-bedd-afc134dbc77b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Twelve X takes where the original titanium model starts and takes it to a new level. There are changes beyond the obvious skeletonization. Any integrated bracelet watch, when properly sized, should wear comfortably to be successful and this release fits the bill to a \"T.\" The case has been enlarged by 1mm in diameter and 3.35mm in thickness to accommodate the in-house SH21 movement. That's certainly a noticeable difference on the wrist, especially in thickness, but thanks to the rounded case and seamless integration from case to bracelet, it softens the bulk ever so slightly. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2e860675-6c6e-44d9-b571-10da2755018d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3c5719cf-96ca-481f-ba0a-9c278f3ca227"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ab181847-8b3d-4f16-87c0-f4eff74e03e5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The bezel and caseback are made out of Grade 5 titanium, with the rest of the watch in the slightly softer Grade 2. I find this a bit curious as the bezel, while generally the place you'd notice the most dings and dents on a highly polished surface like the Royal Oak, is less prominent. The chamfers on the side of the case and bracelet, however, seem ripe for a good wack if you're not careful, and running that very nicely done clean line on the watch would certainly be a shame. Whether the upgrade to Grade 5 would help there, I'm not sure. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9339558a-97c3-420e-90f5-7d7372d86409"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The flip side is that the use of Grade 2 titanium in these other places likely helped with the finishing of these polished edges and the brushed surfaces in between. That's one of the biggest strengths on The Twelve in general. Where titanium can often be handled in a way that accentuates the muted visual language of the material, when treated with the right level of finishing, you can bring out the subtleties of contrast of reflection and a deep grey depth that more brands are playing with in the material. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f1b34e7b-193d-426a-afea-318643c008a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The skeletonization is likely going to be one of the biggest selling points for The Twelve X and for good reason. To me, Audemars Piguet reigns supreme in their skeletonized movements, which in many cases are designed from the ground up with openworked display in mind. This is no Double-Balance Royal Oak, but for $4,335, the Swiss-made Christopher Ward gives you a bit of a taste of that feeling.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"At the end of the day, we're talking about a watch that is an automatic COSC-certified chronometer, accurate and with five days (120 hours, for those not wanting to do the math at home) of power reserve. That is, very plainly, impressive. Including the two barrels to make that power reserve happen will obviously clutter up the openness of design, but it's a small price to pay for the benefit of the extra power reserve. The watch certainly suffers a bit in legibility as any skeletonized watch does, but the area at the edge of the dial has hours and minutes clearly indicated in luminous material, which helps.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bdfeda5c-458c-4af8-b941-cec912813404"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The movement is – unsurprisingly considering the price – machine finished. The brand has simplified the bridges and shapes as much as possible and used contrasting colors on the bridges and other parts to keep the look punchy. The finishing is done with what the brand calls \"custom-made diamond cutters\" and using the \"highest-quality CNC machines\" because any vibration during that finishing will leave wrinkles and waves on the surface. These kinds of things will continue to be techniques applicable to this price range, however, and a nice value when executed as well as they are here.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["42fc4832-fb78-4028-a168-5e07c2815ccc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The other fantastic inclusion on the new The Twelve X is the changes made to the butterfly clasp. The watch now includes an integrated micro-adjust clasp on each end of the closure for the bracelet, which means you can get an extra 3mm of space to adjust for any changes in humidity, weight gain, or even fix if the watch just barely doesn't fit right with a link taken out. The brand said this is something that \"until recently [was] unknown on an integrated bracelet,\" which isn't the case. Vacheron has had a micro-adjust on their Overseas line now for the better part of 10 years. But now, it comes on a watch that's a fraction of the price. I'll be curious to see if this design makes its way to other versions of The Twelve, which have become increasingly enticing as I write this review for their lower price point and bold dial colors.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6dd2ea5e-8de8-4fa5-96a4-2e8a42635b3a","f5be3ea7-ff08-4990-b276-c214fc03fe32"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0233fc78-2020-4bc8-9e24-d5f3293eea63"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"A big part of the ethos of Christopher Ward is something I appreciate the most: the brand feels strongly that a watch should never be sold for more than three times the manufacturing cost. It's also something that can really only be done with the brand's direct-to-consumer model, so if you're looking for The Twelve X, you should head over to the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christopherward.com/int/home/" target=\"_blank\">brand's website</a>. At $4,335 the watch offers a lot of bang for the buck. Now that Christopher Ward is a year into having joined the ranks of brands offering integrated bracelet watches, it's only a matter of time before the Twelve becomes known not just as the best of different parts of other brand's designs but as something distinctly their own.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5c34ee56-e285-4f17-ab03-2fc8933c418b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Christopher Ward The Twelve X, 41mm diameter by 12.3mm thick Grade 2 and Grade 5 titanium case, with 100m water resistance. Skeletonized Dial; Hours, minutes, seconds functions. 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Watches on wrists are a priority, but capturing the atmosphere of the event and dynamic imagery is also front-of-mind.\r\n ","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.114-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-06T14:26:03.596-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"3c03dad4-26d0-429f-87fa-7a557f57aff4","container_id":13354,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/62b5761b-51c5-4a4c-b892-881008ab88ec/20240421_MonacoLegendGroup_682.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Rainbow Daytona and Dog","created_at":"2024-04-21T09:12:21.673-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-23T16:05:53.657-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/62b5761b-51c5-4a4c-b892-881008ab88ec/20240421_MonacoLegendGroup_682.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/photo-report-monaco-spring-2024","full_title":"Photo Report: Watch Spotting The Monaco Legend Spring 2024 Auction (130+ Photos)","tags":["watch-spotting","photo-report","monaco-legend"]},{"id":13363,"slug":"intro-patek-philippe-only-watch-6301a","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Patek Philippe Announces New Unique Piece For Only Watch, A Steel Sonnerie And Minute Repeater","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-25T13:30:14.472-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-24T11:20:53.506-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-25T13:31:32.163-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The delay in Only Watch changed Patek's plans and resulted in this gorgeous watch.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":27949,"public_token":"fc3669950eeb80c97af9bd1968b1b528","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Earlier this week, Patek Philippe announced their official entry for Only Watch 2023 (now being held May 10, 2024). The new watch, a ref. 6301A, features a grande et petite sonnerie and minute repeater with a grande feu enamel dial, all cased in steel, one of the rarest metals for a complicated Patek.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5151c683-f234-413f-b196-0633479774f5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Last year's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/only-watch-may-2024-update/" target=\"\">delay in the Only Watch auction</a> resulted in several brands pulling out but also had add-on effects for the brands that stuck around. Some smaller brands use Only Watch as a chance to test new ideas for future releases and need the positive press of massive auction results to prove the value of their eventual serial production. Patek, however, decided they'd rather not wait. Instead of holding off on launching production of their Only Watch release-based series, they just moved forward with it anyway and announced the 30-piece limited series of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-30-piece-limited-series-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-alarm-ref-1938p-in-honor-of-philippe-ster/" target=\"_blank\">ref. 1938 Minute Repeater Alarm</a> last November. The watch felt very unusual compared to past Pateks, with a grand feu enamel portrait of Philippe Stern on the dial. This new watch feels much more \"Patek.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d773704c-6f7a-44ec-91e3-281e5c5ba9ae"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As is always the case with Only Watch, the new 6301A is a unique version of Patek's grande et petite sonnerie and minute repeater, featuring the manually wound caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM movement seen through the exhibition caseback, which strikes three gongs. The watch is cased in steel, one of the most ideal metals for a chiming watch (denser materials like gold or platinum deaden the sound), measuring 44.8mm by 12.03mm thick. As far as I can tell, this is the first time Patek has done a standalone grande et petite sonnerie watch (the only other I can think of is their record-setting <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-grandmaster-chime-ref-6300a-for-only-watch-2019/" target=\"_blank\">Only Watch Grandmaster Chime</a>). That means the watch strikes the quarters and hours in grande sonnerie mode or only the hours if set to petite sonnerie. The watch also features a silence and can chime the time on demand with the minute repeater triggered by a monopusher-style button in the crown.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["81551dc5-18a1-499e-9a2f-b6eaf600f2bf","c9d7e777-c873-48d9-b755-416ce32aa905"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The movement measures a very compact 37mm by 7.5mm thick while still housing two mainspring barrels that impart 72 hours of power reserve for the movement and 24 hours for the strikeworks. That extra power allows the watch to complete all 1056 strikes from the sonnerie over 24 hours. The movement also features jumping small seconds (also known as deadbeat seconds).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8ebb03fd-8e6b-4389-ba82-bea1e622ee8c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial is capped with a Rare Handcrafts dial with hand-guilloché swirling pattern with Grand Feu blue-green enamel similar to the newest version of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5178G-012/" target=\"_blank\">Cathedral Gongs minute repeater ref. 5178G</a>. The dial is set with 12 baguette-cut diamond hour markers (0.45ct worth of diamonds). The power reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework features transfer-printed \"Only One\" along their edge. In all, it's an eye-catch piece from the brand and one that feels more harmonious with other releases they've done in the past, and while it won't come anywhere near breaking the record of the steel Grandmaster Chime, it's a watch I certainly would love to see in the metal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Only Watch Rare Handcrafts Grande and Petite Sonnerie, Minute Repeater Reference Number: 6301A-010\n\nDiameter: 44.8mm Thickness: 12.03mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Grand Feu blue-green enamel hand-guilloched dial with a swirling pattern (flinqué enamel) Indexes: Diamond baguette indices, printed power reserve indicator. Lume: None Water Resistance: None Strap/Bracelet: Blue green patinated alligator leather strap with square scales, hand-stitched. Steel fold-over clasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a7c46495-802b-4dd3-ac6a-6f5525da217e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: GS 36-750 PS IRM Functions: Hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds, grande et petite sonnerie on three gongs, crown-activated minute repeater Diameter: 37mm Thickness: 7.5mm Power Reserve: 72 hours for the movement, 24 hours for the strikeworks Winding: Manual Frequency: 3.5 Hz Parts: 703 total Chronometer Certified: No Additional Details: Transfer-printed \"only one\" inscription on the power reserve indicators. Sapphire crystal case back bearing the metallized inscription \"Only Watch 2024\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: Estimate range of CHF 1,500,000 - 1,800,000 Availability: At Only Watch Auction on May 10, 2024 in Geneva Limited Edition: Pièce Unique\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.onlywatch.com/patek-philippe/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review of the Patek Philippe ref. 6301A Grande et Petite Sonnerie for Only Watch","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"68e0f7cb-0207-45e3-a18a-93ecfca0cc34","container_id":13363,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/ef488755-5b53-4ce3-adee-728ce72bce7b/Hero_PatekOnlyWatch.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Patek 6301A","created_at":"2024-04-24T11:20:53.645-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-24T11:20:53.645-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/ef488755-5b53-4ce3-adee-728ce72bce7b/Hero_PatekOnlyWatch.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-patek-philippe-only-watch-6301a","full_title":"Introducing: Patek Philippe Announces New Unique Piece For Only Watch, A Steel Sonnerie And Minute Repeater","tags":["patek-philippe","only-watch","grande-sonnerie","minute-repeater","unique-piece","sonnerie"]},{"id":13313,"slug":"hands-on-fp-journe-elegante-ginos-dream","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"F.P. Journe's Élégante 'Gino's Dream' Is A Bright, Fun, Tenth Anniversary Tribute To A Friend","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-22T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-15T10:53:44.122-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-26T10:43:36.553-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Three years after the passing of Gino Cukrowicz – Journe's co-founder– Journe announced a watch fit to his outsized, colorful, and highly-missed personality.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":15263,"public_token":"81733129fe4349347cc0f1d9b12d0149","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"If there's one thing I should know by now, it's that when it comes to F.P. Journe, I should expect the unexpected. When I asked several Journe collectors what they expected from the mind of François-Paul for this year's release, answers varied from a new chronograph to a watch based on the Only Watch 2023 Furtif Bleu with tantalum case and tantalum bracelet. I doubt hardly anyone – myself included – expected a watch that I found to be the most fun (and surprising) release of the fair week.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["51aab7f6-7932-4ce0-b2c7-362e271e8204"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"No, F.P. Journe was not at Watches & Wonders. Just like the brand has long chosen to eschew the GPHG Awards after a long, unbeaten run of awards, they forego such official things as major fairs to put on their events at Montres Journe headquarters in Old Town Geneva. We'll have more soon from a tour of the facilities that I did earlier this month, but the headquarters transformed into a hangout for the Journe acolytes that have turned the brand into arguably the biggest traditional independent powerhouse in watches over the last decade. I ran into Osama (TheJourneGuy), among others, at the headquarters before being taken to see the new F.P. Journe's élégante \"Gino's Dream.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["598212ad-b59e-421a-80a5-31e71311d5b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In hindsight, the choice of an élégante (without capitalization, the way the brand stylizes the name) should have been obvious. It's the 10th anniversary of the reference. The new F.P. Journe's élégante is, at its core, the same as the brand's past 48mm (measured lug-to-lug) quartz-powered releases. This makes it yet another \"Tortue\" shaped watch announced this year. The case comes in either titanium or titalyt-coated (black) titanium, with 30m water resistance. I'll cover the specs below, but the most eye-catching part of the model is by far the most important and emotional: the ceramic glass bezel. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The late <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/05/obituary-gino-cukrowicz-ginotti.html/" target=\"_blank\">Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021)</a> was one of three co-founders in what would become Montres Journe, a massive personality and vocal and passionate friend of François-Paul from the early days of the brand. He founded the retailer Ginotti in 1987 and quickly became a central figure in the independent scene. It was Daniel Roth who introduced Cukrowicz to Journe. Prior to the announcement of the Tourbillon Remontoir d'Egalite in 1999, Cukrowicz became a co-founder of the brand. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["98ad4947-ab66-49ea-bf6e-65829fadff09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Cukrowicz was known for his colorful personality and clothing. François-Paul designed the rainbow-bezel watch to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the ingenious quartz watch. During previews, one person referred to the watch as \"Gino's Dream\" due to the ceramic glass pieces set into the bezel. The name stuck.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e2218880-d3e7-49cb-85ac-86fc44a7b4dd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The élégante remains F.P. Journe's largest production piece of the catalogue. While the brand does not make (nor plans ever to make) more than 1,000 mechanical watches a year, it makes almost half that number again in its technical marvel of a quartz watch, the élégante. Key features remain the same like the white or black luminous dials and silver-toned titanium or black titalyt-coated titanium cases made in-house at Les Cadraniers and Les Boîtiers de Genève. Unfortunately the white dial only comes in the titanium case now, paring down the lineup a bit. The case, with 30m water resistance, measures 40mm diameter by 7.95mm thick by 48mm lug-to-lug, making this an \"élégante 48\" – the larger and more sporty of the two case sizes. Its sportiness continues with the rubber strap offered in a myriad of colors, with a deployant clasp. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's also one of the most affordable watches in the F.P. Journe catalog at $18,900 ($16,500 for the 40mm version is the overall winner). And despite naysayers pointing to the fact that a quartz watch misses the point of F.P. Journe's mechanical expertise, it's a watch the man himself wears quite often.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7c02162c-8076-48ed-96bc-c8b213e61d42"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The watch is powered by the caliber 1210 electromechanical movement made in Geneva (instead of being outsourced to a country far more known for work on circuitry). The goes to sleep after 35 minutes of inactivity but will move the hands to the correct time when \"woken\" by moving the watch, which rotates a small weight seen through an aperture on the dial at 4:30. The watch has 8-10 years of power reserve in standard mode and 18 years in standby mode, one of the longest on the market. Again, all this remains the same as past models. But that ignores the rainbow-colored elephant in the room.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cec1b71e-98af-4507-b87e-aebb702751b1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8e83b550-e3c2-4967-9d5a-390b69b4ae20","7605d9cf-4368-4083-93c4-ccf92e9024ff"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5f2fca2d-b226-42c5-901c-4d7f2c968a9d","bcd6fe67-04d2-4374-9e17-b584c3e7d4da"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When I first saw pictures of \"Gino's Dream,\" I thought I was looking at yet another rainbow bezel set with sapphires. That itself might not have been a surprise; F.P. Journe isn't one to skip subtlety for the sake of bold design. But it would be disappointing to hear that a portion of production for the brand's most affordable watches would be going to something that inevitably would be extremely expensive.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Instead, the bezel is set with ceramic sapphire stones, with a gradient of hues hand-selected by François-Paul Journe for color balance and effect. These synthetically made stones allow the brand to make far more of the new \"Gino's Dream\" than they would have been able to with sapphires and at a cost that's much, much lower: $40,000. Yes, that's twice the price of the base model but to use a word I've avoided since Watches & Wonders started, it's the price you pay to get a \"novelty\" that's, well, actually novel.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["da41106d-5deb-4081-b627-bd718e2a44cf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aec10e84-8178-4319-ab19-7042f5f00c4d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Then there's the setting of the stones themselves, which is likely where the bulk of the cost lies. Setting stones into a metal like titanium is no small feat. There's a reason why gem-setting is usually reserved for forms of gold (or sometimes platinum, when the stones and surfaces are large enough). These softer metals allow the setter to conform the case or bracelet material to the watch and finish it appropriately. While F.P. Journe wouldn't tell me exactly how they accomplished the feat, a close examination of the bezel seems to give some answers.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["25440fb3-938f-4f1f-9630-5351c43f8bdd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["21322346-10e3-4c35-b591-22011de57bc2","fb839979-f577-412d-9ae3-ca196afaa548"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"From what I can tell, the stones seem to be nestled under the inner flange of the bezel near the dial. At the outside edge, it looks like there's a small ribbon strip of metal (maybe titanium) putting pressure between the outer bezel and the stones, which is then tensioned in place by small mirror-polished tacks. This reminds me of how artwork is tightened around a canvas and tacked in place, then tightened even further by tapping \"keys\" into the back of the stretcher. It's an ingenious bit of work to do something unexpected. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["11695ad8-1491-43b8-a726-37f973271493"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If you're looking for grand answers about what makes this watch so enticing, I'm afraid you've come to the wrong Hands-On. I'm unsure what makes this rainbow offering so fun in a world where rainbow-set watches have become ubiquitous. I expected to show photos of this watch to other team members and find out that I was the only one drawn in by the surprise release, but it seemed like nearly everyone else felt the same: \"Gino's Dream\" is just fun. Maybe it was the delirium of the week or the fact that so much of the Swiss watch industry takes itself so seriously, but it was a release that I needed to see. While I'll keep my name on the list for a 48mm titalyt model in the meantime, it will be fun to see these around in the wild in the coming months, knowing Gino would be proud to see his dream come to life.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4b39f04a-486f-45f6-a075-d1a4b66f2b6f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"F.P. Journe élégante 48mm \"Gino's Dream,\" 40mm diameter by 7.95mm thick by 48mm lug-to-lug case in Titanium or Titalyt-coated titanium, with 30m water resistance. White or black luminous dial, blued or silver hands, hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, and \"sleep mode\" functions. Cal. 1210 electromechanical movement that goes to sleep after 35 minutes of inactivity but will move the hands to the correct time when \"woken.\" 8-10 years of power reserve in standard mode and 18 years in standby mode. Rubber strap with folding clasp. Price: CHF $40,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"F.P. Journe's élégante \"Gino's Dream\" Review","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d6eff23a-7520-41f0-a7e1-cb1593128298","container_id":13313,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/068db27b-40cf-49af-a14b-658fa179668a/20240411_FPJeleganteGinosDream_006.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"F.P. Journe's élégante \"Gino's Dream\"","created_at":"2024-04-15T10:53:44.159-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-15T10:53:44.159-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/068db27b-40cf-49af-a14b-658fa179668a/20240411_FPJeleganteGinosDream_006.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-elegante-ginos-dream","full_title":"Hands-On: F.P. Journe's Élégante 'Gino's Dream' Is A Bright, Fun, Tenth Anniversary Tribute To A Friend","tags":["fp-journe","quartz","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024","elegante","fp-journe-elegante"]},{"id":13226,"slug":"auctions-monaco-legend-spring-2024-preview","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"Top Lots, Trends, And Affordable Picks To Watch At Monaco Legends Group’s 2024 Spring Auction","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-19T09:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-01T12:02:30.564-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-20T04:09:07.439-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Plus, we're nearly guaranteed to see one Rolex record broken in Monaco this weekend, and it's not the watch you expect.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":32317,"public_token":"e6361da90cbf7791afec26728bfc2cd4","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"We're back in Monaco for the start of the spring auction season. And what better way to get a feel for the lots to watch than actually handle them in person?","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["15145439-98f8-425c-b1e5-1ecca4d71433"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7dd7a2af-0d5d-415e-babd-f5f8f0e1cdd7","b982c335-3c6e-44dd-a30f-9c25335dabeb"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["087864f2-05da-48cf-a729-3e943fc8d790"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I recently wrote about two of Monaco Legend Group's cover lots this season, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-90/" target=\"\">Patek single-button split-second chronograph</a>, with shared provenance from automotive legend Henry Segrave and aeronautical icon Amelia Earhart. The watch was a treat to see in person. I got goosebumps thinking about the fact I was wearing something both of those legends wore. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-101/" target=\"\">Rolex ref. 4113</a>, one of only eight known and twelve thought to have been made, the estimate range is strong compared to past results, but I have no doubt that it will clear that number (now lowered to €2,500,000 – 5,000,000). I covered the history of the ref. 4113 in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/auctions-monaco-rolex-4113/" target=\"_blank\">a story earlier this week</a>. But the catalog is deep. There are 276 other lots, and I went through them to pick out a bunch worth watching. Hold on because there's a lot here for what might be Monaco Legends Group's strongest auction yet.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The auction is certainly Rolex-heavy again this time, but most of it isn't your usual suspects.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f2095512-09db-47d4-ade2-86d04b6cea10"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"One of the top lots will undoubtedly be a tropical <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-35/" target=\"\">yellow-gold Rolex ref. 6062</a> with its original box, last seen at \"The Mondani Collection of Rolex Wristwatches\" Auction in May 2006 and sold for CHF 164,000. Times have changed, and the estimate is now €600,000 to €1,200,000. The case and dial both have a super charming patina. The other famous vintage Rolex with a moonphase is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-206/" target=\"\">ref. 8171 \"Padellone,\"</a> and there's one in Monaco, too, in yellow gold with box, papers, and booklets. If you want to learn all about the 8171, you should read <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-rolex-8171-padellone-moonphase/" target=\"\">Ben's story</a> from Hodinkee Magazine Vol. 9. This is one of the last 8171 made, with a Stern Frères dial and a non-waterproof snapback case.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["166d8870-8e4a-414e-a578-a67700f680ba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I can't forget to mention one of the most unusual Rolex watches in existence, one that rarely comes to the market: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-199/" target=\"\">the ref. 3346 Centregraph</a>. Only nine have ever come to market. I never knew what to make of these after seeing them in pictures. It wears very small and the dial is even smaller because of the dominant bezel, but the watch has a look that you can't find anywhere else. Last but not least, the auction rounds out with one of \"three or four known\" <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-278/" target=\"\">smooth-bezel ref. 6304 Datejusts</a> in platinum and the only one signed by retailer Serpico y Laino (on the dial and the case), and at a €500,000 to €1,000,000 estimate range, it should easily set a record for a Datejust (set by Monaco Legend's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-24/lot-142/" target=\"\">red jasper white gold ref. 1601</a> three years ago).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1373838a-3a72-4128-b8a0-a1b372c0e381"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c308a152-bc65-45cf-8f03-fe7b7e5db1d4","04987d40-b539-4042-869b-641f23e6d274"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f9636fa2-e6a2-49a9-9696-5e31cb2ba62e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This auction is full of provenance-oriented watches, from the obscure like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-237/" target=\"\">Movado Polyplan</a> owned by French artist <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arman/" target=\"\">Arman</a> to a boatload of Middle Eastern royalty-commissioned pieces that have become standard inclusions in any major auction. The yellow gold Khanjar-stamped <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-147/" target=\"\">Patek ref. 3700</a> (lot 147) is another top estimate at €500,000 to €1,000,000, but a few lots late, you get to the weirder stuff like a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-188/" target=\"\">Khanjar-stamped Patek Dome Clock</a> with cloisonné enamel scenes of Muscat's landscapes (if you're up for €180,000 to €360,000 for a cloisonné clock). There’s also a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-140/" target=\"_blank\">“red-writing” Rolex ref. 6542</a> with Bakelite bezel (one of my favorite references of all time), that belonged to Gonzalo Güell, former Foreign Affairs and Prime Minister of Cuba. Tony Traina pointed out that with my frequent visits to Monaco, I need an appropriately \"Monaco\" watch. He kindly picked out Lot 270 as a gift to me, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-270/" target=\"\">a platinum ref. 1804 Day-Date</a> with a diamond-set bezel and dial, a nice red Khanjar stamp, and a jubilee bracelet. Thanks, Tony. Next round is on me. If I can pick up MLG's tropical <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-83/" target=\"\">Vacheron 4072</a> for a few bucks, I'll throw that in for you, too.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4cb79c09-c29d-4446-9392-a3fb2223eedb","1b26526a-ca33-4d89-acdd-868127cb9c28"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While that's all well and good, I'm more budget-conscious, so I've got my eye on a few more affordable buys. I've always thought an early oversized enamel-dial chronograph would be a fun watch to have, even if just for a little bit to scratch the itch of curiosity. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-154/" target=\"\">Lot 154</a> fits the bill very well, a yellow gold Omega single-button chronograph that measures 45mm and has a hinged caseback. And while I could try to be a bit sneaky and hide two cool watches for myself, I'll probably raise my paddle for the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-46/" target=\"\">Eberhard Scafodat</a> (€5,000 to €10,000) and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-52/" target=\"\">Universal Tri-Compax</a> (€3,000 to €6,000 with no reserve, though with a redone dial which means it’s up to you whether it’s worth the discount), both in pink gold. I’m keeping an eye on the Bueche Girod Maxi Oval and platinum Tank with guilloche dial as well. But most large auction houses find watches under $10,000 more work than it’s worth so any potential affordable watches aren’t to be taken for granted. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["82bc72b8-ead3-41f3-8ead-499ae129e78a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6596cb34-574c-4470-9e76-8ee8c4e54c06"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Speaking of Universal, I can't help but call out the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-272/" target=\"\">military-issued A. Cairelli 24-hour split-second chronograph</a>, which I've mentioned before as one of my top-five favorite watches of all time. This one has a bit of smudging on the dial at 12 o'clock, but that's more than made up for tenfold because it comes from the original owner's family with documents to back up the military provenance. The watch comes with photos of the original owner, his military files, and cufflinks from his assignment as an aviator. The estimate is €25,000 to €50,000, but I've heard from a few dealers that a pristine version of this watch, with no provenance, recently sold for a reported €180,000 (though I haven't seen receipts).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Monaco gives a good opportunity to track the recent trends toward smaller and fashion-forward watches in Monaco. There are a lot of interesting Piaget pieces in this auction, appropriate for the brand's 150th anniversary. MLG's watch department's chairman Davide Parmegiani, has suggested that Piaget did in the 60s and 70s what Cartier did in the 20s and 30s when it comes to design. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-49/" target=\"\">Lot 49</a>, a small square ladies' watch in white gold with an onyx bezel, and Lot <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-123/" target=\"\">123</a>, a Lapis dial stunner, have low enough estimates to grab a few bids and do quite well.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c12a320-dfc9-41f3-9c62-031784ca3a5d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6a79da2f-0112-4daa-90d7-b23d650dcc05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While Piaget has its moment, there's another possibly unique and design-forward watch, a small bark-finished Patek made by the legendary Gilbert Albert. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-63/" target=\"\">This strangely shaped curved-triangle watch</a>, ref. 3270 almost looks like it's covered in parquet flooring and last sold at Antiquorum in 2003 for CHF 11,500. The estimate isn't much higher this time, €15,000 to €30,000. One of the coolest things about the ref. 3270 is that it can be found on a strap in a horizontal orientation with the crown at 12 o'clock, as we have here, on an integrated bracelet in a vertical orientation with the crown at 3 o'clock, or (seemingly the rarest) in a horizontal layout on a bracelet.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["84d5f59c-3adb-4bf3-b7f5-9cd471e0269a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bbb442d6-0cf5-4cd8-a499-5d7ff5980afb","5de380c4-c709-4e8b-9d9f-70a7213040c6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If you thought you'd escape an auction preview with me and not get a pocket watch or two, you don't know me well enough. I'll keep it brief. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-175/" target=\"\">The Patek ref. 605 HU world time</a> pocket watch is always fun to see, but I wanted to point out a specific Vacheron. On offer day two is a watch that I more commonly see at auctions from Patek, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-232/" target=\"\">a perpetual calendar minute-repeating split-second chronograph pocket watch</a>. In-person, it felt like a perfect example of the watchmaking of the era, with Breguet numerals and the Vacheron signature placed low beneath the outer track at 6 o'clock, and a nice, clear chime. There's only a handful of potential bidders for this watch, from an estimate of €100,000 to €200,000, so we'll see how the bidding goes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/" target=\"\">Monaco Legend Group's \"Exclusive Timepieces\" Spring Auction</a> will take place on Saturday, April 20, starting at 2:30 p.m. CET and Sunday, April 21, over two sessions, starting at 10:30 a.m. CET and 2:30 p.m. CET.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Top Lots, Trends, And Affordable Picks To Watch At Monaco Legends Group’s 2024 Spring Auction","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"6b37dc0c-bad5-4f9d-a9fc-e14929cd3e0c","container_id":13226,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/650e1542-2e81-4503-85a1-ea1cb2b09c51/Hero_20240418_MonacoLegendGroupPreview_056.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Rolex 4113 and Patek Split-Second","created_at":"2024-04-01T12:02:30.604-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-18T09:09:20.779-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/650e1542-2e81-4503-85a1-ea1cb2b09c51/Hero_20240418_MonacoLegendGroupPreview_056.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/auctions-monaco-legend-spring-2024-preview","full_title":"Auctions: Top Lots, Trends, And Affordable Picks To Watch At Monaco Legends Group’s 2024 Spring Auction","tags":[]}]}">